A Perfect Merging of Earth and Ocean

January 24, 2012

Place Pigalle, a venerable restaurant in the Pike Place Market with heart-stopping views of Elliott Bay and a proper French bistro vibe has always been one of our favorite places for both Saturday lunch (Oyster Stew and Beet and Goat-Cheese Salad!) or an any-day-of-the week dinner.

Over the holidays, when both of us had a touch of the “crud” that was going around Seattle, and I simply didn’t feel like exerting the energy to make dinner, we stopped by around six p.m. for a cocktail to cheer ourselves up, with the hope that they might be able to squeeze us in for a bite to eat.

A drink at Place Pigalle is always a treat, not only because the bar is so well stocked and wine list so full and interesting, but because the bartendress there is very knowledgeable and personable, not to mention generous with her samples. This time she let me try Cardamom Bitters made by Seattle-based Scrappy’s, which reminded me of Scandinavian Christmas cookies and glögg, and made me lament how underused cardamom is in American cooking.

My entrée choice of Seared Scallops with Almond Purée and Braised Fennel took me to new heights, a simple-sounding dish that perfectly merged earth (a musky purée of almonds) with ocean (the plump, briny scallops). Braised fennel created the perfect anise-y, crunchy note, while a few orange segments and spinach leaves provided visual color and contrast and an acidic note.

Bravo, Place Pigalle. You heartily deserve our Dish of the Day!

Just for fun, here is Place Pigalle’s Oyster Stew.

Korean Food for the New Year

January 6, 2012

I must admit that I am not an expert when it comes to Korean cuisine.

I tested two recipes for my original Pike Place Market Cookbook that were submitted by Deluxe Barbecue, an old-time business has long-since been supplanted by a sushi place.

And everyone who’s a foodie knows about the nation’s national dish and passion–kimchi–fermented cabbage that comes in many different styles and variations.

But last month, when Spencer and I needed to make a Uwajimaya run for green tea and sake, we stopped off in the food court for lunch.

Shilla at Uwajimaya caught my eye, not only because I suspected it was an outpost of the venerable downtown Seattle Shilla, but because it was a step up from the pre-cooked, hot-table food offered elsewhere at the busy food court.

Shilla at Uwajimaya owner Ike Lee

Cooking to order, à la minute, Shilla’s owner Ike Lee told me he is a former owner of the original downtown Shilla. He’s an affable and faintly hucksterish (in a good way) sort of guy. It’s immediately apparent that he owns the place and he thrives on making his customers happy.

I happily settled in with the Tofu Soup with Seafood.

“Take the soup with a small bite of rice first,” Lee advised. “Koreans have a more spicy palate than Americans, so you need the rice to mellow the soup.”

Good advice, as the soup was pleasingly, warmingly, meltingly spiced.

Here is Spencer’s Spicy Chicken, which he asked for “extra-spicy,” so I could hardly even sample it!

Entrées came with brown or white rice, kimchi, and a chopped romaine salad with a light soy-sauce dressing.

We got out of there for less than $20 and enjoyed ourselves thoroughly. Thanks, Ike!

My Seattle Restaurant Recommendations

December 27, 2011

A couple of months ago, Rhonda May, an esteemed editor friend of mine from Vancouver, British Columbia, told me she was planning a trip to Seattle and asked if we could meet up for a drink.

Rhonda publishes CityFood Magazine and website, and I’ve written articles on the Seattle dining scene for her in the past and regard her highly.

Unfortunately, we were already slated to be outta town that weekend, so I had to take a pass.

But when she asked for a few pointers, I composed a quick list, which I share with you today in case you’re in search of reliable places to take family and friends for holiday outings, or just places you might want to try yourself for a drink or a meal.

1. Be sure to wander around the Melrose Market and the Taylor Shellfish facility up on Capitol Hill. Lots of people like the resto Sitka & Spruce there–I’m not so much of a fan so you can decide for yourself.

2. In the same ‘hood are many of Seattle’s new, trendy restos. A particular fave is Cascina Spinasse for its Tajarin (thin, handcut noodles with sage and butter or meat ragu).

Skillet Diner is also always packed but we haven’t tried it yet.

Anchovies and Olives is one of Ethan Stowell’s four restos. I’d opt for Staple & Fancy (his Ballard neighborhood resto) cuz you can also have a look at Walrus & Carpenter which is right next door.

3. Ballard is also a “hot” resto neighborhood. Maria Hines (Tilth) has her new Golden Beetle there. We also enjoy Joule and Revel (newer than Joule–upscale street food) in the Wallingford and Fremont ‘hoods (same two owners), respectively.

4. Still like Steelhead Diner in the Pike Place Market or chef Kevin Davis’s newer resto Blueacre Seafood more uptown near Pacific Place shopping mall–reminds me of Vancouver restos because it’s big and cool.

5. Lecosho on the Harbor Steps has one of my all-time fave dishes, Grilled Octopus with Garbanzo Beans. Salads are excellent, too. Good happy-hour values (and HH is VERY hot right now).

6. Lots happening in the new South Lake Union area–you can take the South Lake Union Transit (SLUT!)–street car–to get there and walk all around. Tom Douglas has five restos there (!) and Chris Keff relocated her long-running Flying Fish there from Belltown, which is more of a bar than resto scene lately (and more dangerous as a result, sadly). Seastar is also known for its good seafood and excellent wine list. The Whole Foods Market there is huge and an anchor of the ‘hood.

7. The Eastside has lots of clones of downtown Sea restos and has really grown up A LOT in the past few years. At The Bravern you’ll find John Howie Steaks (Howie owns Seastar and there’s one of those on the Eastside as well) and the gorgeous second location of Wild Ginger, always reliable. Nearby is a location of El Gaucho (steakhouse), Joey’s, Palomino, Cheesecake Factory, ‘Z Tejas, etc.

Happy Holiday Eating and Drinking to one and all!

Downtown Seattle Holiday Traditions

December 16, 2011

My latest Taste column for The Seattle Times Pacific Northwest magazine celebrates the downtown Seattle holiday traditions that Spencer and I have established since moving to the city 21 years ago.

Gingerbread Pudding at icon Grill

Among the traditions?

Lunch at icon Grill with my two best girlfriends. Here’s a photo of the yummy Gingerbread Pudding that’s offered up as one of the restaurant’s four holiday desserts. It was divine–gingerbread in an eggy, ginger-tinged pudding with two large scoops of double-cream ice cream and caramel sauce on the top.

If that doesn’t suit (can’t imagine, but just in case!), here are some other sweet holiday options offered up at icon: Candy Cane Cake, “Build Your Own” Holiday Cookie Plate, or Pumpkin Cheesecake.

Yum, and calories be damned!

Feeling Purple

December 6, 2011

We were out in Woodinville picking up some wine a couple of Saturdays ago and happened in to the Purple Cafe & Wine Bar location there for a late lunch.

We have had inconsistent experiences with the Purple downtown, but decided to see what one of its  Eastside outposts might offer.

We were very happy with two salads we tried.

Purple Roasted Beets Salad, with Grilled Salmon, included multi-colored beets, generous knobs of Laura Chenel chèvre (goat’s-milk cheese), orange segments, toasted pistachios, and a honking-big piece of perfectly cooked (rare in the middle) salmon was my lucky choice. Orange-balsamic vinaigrette was the perfect light dressing, and arrived on the side, as requested.

Spencer did just as well with his Purple Chop Salad with Blackened Salmon astride. It comprised romaine hearts, bacon, avocado, garbanzos, roasted red bell pepper, blue cheese, and red onion tossed in balsamic vinaigrette.

The following Saturday we unabashedly ate lunch at the Purple downtown, where their winning ways with salad continued as SJ ordered another Purple Chop Salad and I tried the Apple, Walnut, Stilton Salad, again topped with a lovely piece of grilled salmon.

At $9 to $10 for half salads (which is plenty for most people), $12 for full sizes, plus $4 if you add pulled chicken, $6 for prawns or marinated flank steak, and $7 for grilled salmon or a crab cake, Purple in its various iterations offers a plethora of toothsome and carefully-cooked main-dish salads to appeal to almost any appetite.

The Cranberry Chicken Salad with grilled chicken, bacon, almonds, scallions, celery, apples, dried cranberries, parmigiano-reggiano, and cranberry-dijon vinaigrette would be particularly festive this time of the year.

Tavolàta Sunday Dinners

November 1, 2011

Our friends at Tavolàta in Belltown offer Sunday dinners that are tons of fun and always a sellout–don’t miss your chance to get in on the family-style fun!

On Sunday, November 6, enjoy Roasted Turkey!

Dinner will be served family style at the communal table (the tavolàta), where seating is limited to 26 guests.

Dinner begins at 6 p.m., and cost is $50 per person.

Reservations are required. Please call 206.838.8008 to reserve your spot.

Final 2012 Sunday Feast – SAVE THE DATE

December 4 – Roman-Style Feast

Opened in January of 2007 by chef Ethan Stowell, Tavolàta is an urban-Italian eatery located at 2323 Second Avenue in Seattle’s bustling Belltown neighborhood.

Sublime housemade pastas, simple Italian cuisine, and a 30-foot communal table (the tavolàta) that runs down the center of the narrow room keeps the crowds coming back.

Tavolàta offers a full bar and a wine list that is 100% Italian.

Tavolàta serves dinner seven nights a week from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m., and until 12 a.m. on Friday and Saturday evenings.

A happy-hour bar menu is offered from 5 p.m. – 7 p.m. every evening.

For more information or reservations, call 206.838.8008 or visit www.ethanstowellrestaurants.com.

Blue Cheese (Mussels), Please. . .

October 27, 2011

We are so happy to revisit these amazing Blue Mussels served at Voilà Bistro in Madison Valley.

The Blue Cheese Mussels at Voilà Bistrot never fail to please.

The Blue Cheese Mussels at Voilà Bistrot in Seattle’s Madison Valley neighborhood never fail to please, especially when paired with a hearty California Zin. Here’s the before dish (above).

Nothing is left of the Blue Cheese Mussels but artfully arranged shells at Voilà Bistrot.

And the after. . .nothing is left but artfully arranged shells! You’ll find the recipe for Blue Cheese Mussels in Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining, where Voilà Bistrot chef/owner Laurent Gabrel suggests pairing them with a good-quality Washington-State Merlot.

The Red Tablecloth Experience at Il Fornaio

October 21, 2011

While we’re taking a little break, this is a reprint of one of our favorite blog posts from prior years of Northwest Notes. Enjoy!

Three years ago (and totally under the radar), Il Fornaio, the popular Italian restaurant in Pacific Place shopping center in downtown Seattle, started an intriguing program in its main dining room that involves a red tablecloth and special freebies for one lucky couple each evening.

According to an e-mail from general manager Ross Lincoff, “The Italian term is ‘Tavolo d’Onore,’ which translates as, ‘Table of Honor.’ We started it about three years ago, with the idea of making it a focal point of the dining room—so people would look at the tablecloth color [red versus white in the rest of the dining room] and wonder, ‘What is that?’

“We see it as a way to really ‘wow’ the guest from a pure surprise perspective, something special and unexpected to make their dining experience more memorable,” Lincoff continued. “Sometimes we determine the winning couple by special occasions like birthdays or anniversaries, and sometimes it’s more of a spur-of-the-moment thing. It could be regulars that show up and are surprised, or people who strike up a conversation with the host who may seem like they’d enjoy a little extra attention.”

According to Lincoff, the Table of Honor has been an overwhelming success, and something that he feels is crucial, especially in these tough economic times. “We really believe that people are looking for a great experience, overwhelming value, and to be recognized more then ever. This is a GREAT way to accomplish all those things!”

So on a recent weekday night, during the height of our remodel and after two rounds of physical therapy that afternoon (one for my neck and the other for Spencer’s sprained ankle), we were lucky enough to be chosen to sit at the red-tablecloth table in the center of the busy dining room.

At first I figured we were “outed,” since we often eat in the main dining room of Il Fornaio or the more casual Risotteria down the winding stairs. Or perhaps because we live downtown and often shop or go to movies at Pacific Place. Or because I write about food and wine so much.

But we quickly realized that this happy and welcome coincidence was more likely because we fit pretty squarely into the category of “people who strike up a conversation with the host who may seem like they’d enjoy a little extra attention.”

And extra attention was certainly what we got from the moment the perky young hostess spotted us; whisked us to the aforementioned, dramatically draped, circular table in the center of the busy dining room; and introduced us to our very capable and knowledgable server, Luke L.

Il Fornaio Wine

Luke quickly delivered our first freebie of the evening—a bottle of La Verde still (or we could have had sparkling) mineral water from the Italian Alps. Next we ordered a bottle of Domaine Drouhin 2006 Pinot Noir to sip during supper.

Il Fornaio  Antipasti Plate

We quickly scarfed down the tasty (not to mention complimentary) antipasti plate that included chunks of Grana Padano cheese, toothsome olives, salami slices, bruschetta, and crostini with tapenade.

And our second complimentary course—two yummy pasta purses (Funny Hats, in Italian) filled with butternut squash and ricotta, napped by brown butter, and sprinkled with crunchy pumpkin seeds—were so nummy and were eaten up so quickly, we failed to snap a shot. Oh, well. All work and not play, etc.

Il Fornaio Pumpkin Pasta
Next up came our entrées (which we gladly paid for). Salmoncino Franciacorta—Wild Coho Salmon Filet with Sautéed Red Grapes, Shallots, and Franciacorta Sparkling Wine and served with Mache Salad and Roasted Yukon Golds—was one of three entrées offered on the special Festa Regionale menu that changes monthly and highlights a particular region in Italy. During the first two weeks in March, the highlighted region was Lombardia—Lombardy—the birthplace of Il Fornaio.
Il Fornaio Chicken
And Spencer’s favorite Pollo Toscano—Roasted Chicken with mashers and sautéed veggies.
Il Fornaio Zabaglione

For dessert, we shared a lovely, light, spring-y Lemon Zabaglione with fresh citrus segments, cherries, and blackberries. It was the final (and complimentary) course to a perfectly served and much enjoyed and appreciated meal.

The Cascina Spinasse Experience

October 18, 2011

While we’re taking a little break, this is a reprint of one of our favorite blog posts from prior years of Northwest Notes. Enjoy!

Tajarin burro e salvia (Fine, hand-cut egg pasta with butter and sage)

We’re probably some of the last people in Seattle who hadn’t, until recently, hoisted ourselves up to Capitol Hill to try the simple and incredible goodness that is Cascina Spinasse.

The place has already garnered rather staggering acclaim for its entire menu, but especially the handmade pasta. The Tajarin–very finely cut egg noodles with either meat ragù or butter and sage–is easily one of the best things we’ve ever put into our mouths. One super-savvy foodie and wine-expert friend of ours who just happened to be celebrating a special anniversary with her hubby at the next table when we showed up described it as “the best Tajarin I’ve ever had outside of Italy.”

In addition to chef/owner Jason Stratton’s boatload of honors, he won one of Food & Wine magazine’s coveted Best New Chef awards for 2010. Only 10 young chefs were so honored and he was the only one from Seattle.

Ravioli di Melanzane (Eggplant Ravioli)

That same amazing evening, in addition to enjoying every bite of antipasti such as Marinated Zucchini with Mint and Apricot; an unforgettable Beet Salad with Crushed Egg, Breadcrumbs, and Spicy Greens; and Fried Duck Egg with Sweet Peppers and Peaches, we had to try the Eggplant Ravioli, paper-thin pasta draping an almost meaty-tasting eggplant filling. If memory serves, it simply dusted with nutmeg and Parmesan. Simple perfection.

And here’s the gorgeous Braised Duck Caramelle in Brodo–duck confit artfully encased in paper-thin pasta sheets and wrapped like little packages!

Stracotto di Maiale con Fagioli Borlotti (Braised Pork Shoulder with Fresh Borlotti Beans)

My meat-lovin’ guy enjoyed his Braised Pork Shoulder with Fresh Borlotti Beans. I tasted the beans and can attest they were rich, good, and perfectly cooked to creamy but still a bit toothsome.

The carefully selected and reasonably priced wine list is entirely Italian except for Cavatappi Non-Vintage Barbera from Washington state ($40) and Cavatappi’s lovely 2004 Nebbiolo ($48), a consistently delicious wine that pairs so well with soulful Italian food.

As the four forks at our table fought for every last bite of the Mousse di Formaggio di Capra–Sweet Goat Cheese Mousse with Fresh Peaches and Caramelized Puff Pastry–I vowed not to eat again for the foreseeable future, or at least until we could dine again at Cascina Spinasse.

Local 360

September 23, 2011

Local 360 is the still fairly new restaurant in the former Flying Fish space in Belltown. It has a rustic vibe and was packed with a good mixed crowd (young folks sipping cocktails at the bar, two guys taking sports next to us, a couple of families, and older folks like us).

Here are the gorgeous “Small Plate” Mediterranean mussels that Spencer and I shared (we were starving after a movie and small lunch, so quickly devoured them). A French Rosé was a good choice for wine pairing.

This is the intriguing Fried Albacore Tuna Collar that I enjoyed as my entrée. Plenty of meat and very nicely prepared. Something I’d love to eat again!

And Spencer’s more-then-ample “Large Plate” Pork Tenderloin with a hearty Mustard Sauce and plenty of green beans.

For further thoughts on 360 Local, read my colleague and friend at The Seattle Times, Providence Cicero’s, two-star review.

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