NEWSY NOTES

Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining Update

Can you spell b-o-o-k t-o-u-r? For the past six weeks, we’ve been on the road promoting Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining. A weekend in Woodinville wine country, just 45 minutes outside downtown Seattle, resulted in a very spirited signing with executive chef Bobby Moore of Barking Frog restaurant at the ever-lovely Willows Lodge. Bobby’s recipe for Petite Lamb Burgers is featured in the book (page 49), and we gave away a bevy of burgers and sold almost 30 books. After a lovely multi-course dinner at Barking Frog (read more in the Resto Review, below) and a good night’s rest, we moved just down the road the next day to Columbia Winery for their annual Taste of Red event.
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The following week, we took the train to Portland for three action-packed days. The Hotel Vintage Plaza (a wine-themed hotel with a sister hotel in Seattle called the Hotel Vintage Park) hosted my book-launch signing in Portland during which we sold another 30 books in just an hour (!). Wine Wednesday featured a discussion by yours truly and several leading Oregon winemakers (Bethel Heights, Panther Creek, Bishop Creek, and Matello) while guests enjoyed Chef John Eisenhart’s small plates paired with the wines. A media dinner for 10 key regional media members in the Pazzo Ristorante Wine Cellar showcased an outstanding collection of Oregon’s best farmers, fishers, and foragers. Favorite pairings included Citrus-Cured Sturgeon, Corn Pancake, Peppercress, and Red Chili with Bishop Creek Cellars 2006 Pinot Gris and Matsutake Mushroom and Scallion Risotto with Three-Day-Old Davero Olive Oil paired with Bethel Heights Vineyards 2006 Pinot Noir.

The next morning, I appeared on “A.M. Northwest,” an early-morning show on Portland’s ABC-network affiliate, with host Dave Anderson. Since I hadn’t hired a food stylist, I was up at 4 a.m. making a batch of Smoked Salmon Tartare for the beauty plate and doing dishes in our hotel-room sink!
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The following week, we took the train to Vancouver for a 48-hour whirlwind of activity. First off were two appearances on City TV. One was a seven-minute segment for “Breakfast TV,” during which I chatted with host Simi Sara about the Northwest wining-and-dining scene. Next, Simi and I taped “City Cooks,” a half-hour cooking show in which I demo-ed three recipes from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining. Luckily, I had a food stylist, media escort, and publicist in Vancouver, so I didn’t have to dirty up our bathroom at the glamorous Fairmont Hotel Vancouver.

Several radio interviews interspersed the television appearances, all followed by a major event at the venerable Barbara-Jo’s Books to Cooks. There the sell-out crowd of 25 people sampled recipes from four different regions in the book paired with BC wines while I spoke about “The A, B, C’s of Food-and-Wine Pairing.”

The next morning I appeared on Fanny Keifer’s long-running “Studio 4” television show, along with the Finance Minister of British Columbia and Vancouver’s most famous big-band leader, who was celebrating his 90th birthday. Fanny is a great foodie and wino, so the 18 minutes flew by. After the taping, we chatted, I signed her book, and left her with a bottle of Bishop Creek Cellars 2006 Syrah to sample.
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December brings with it a fresh crop of appearances in Seattle, Mill Creek, and Lake Forest Park, Washington, including the Tom Douglas Cookbook Social (December 3), Third Place Books (December 10), and Elliott Bay Book Co. (December 16). Shortly after that, we head to New York City, where I’ll meet with my editor and the publicist from John Wiley one day for lunch, then spend the rest of the time wining and dining around the city. Can’t wait!

And articles and reviews of Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining continue to roll in. A very favorable review by venerable Seattle writer Greg Atkinson appeared in the November 18 issue of The Seattle Times Pacific Northwest magazine.

To purchase a copy of Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining, please go to your local bookseller or visit Amazon’s Web site, www.amazon.com.

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Pike Place Market News

A tribute to the Market’s 100th birthday is on display in the main lobby at the Fairmont Olympic Hotel in downtown Seattle, where Executive Pastry Chef Artis Kalsons and his team have created a diorama of the beloved Market entirely out of gingerbread, right down to Rachel the Pig and the “flying fish” of Pike Place Fish fame. www.fairmont.com/seattle

DeLaurenti Specialty Food & Wine, a cornerstone of the Market at First and Pike since 1946, has secured its annual stash of white truffles from Alba, Italy. But this year’s small yield coupled with the weak dollar have driven the price to an unprecedented $4,000 per pound, or $8.81 per gram. (Normally, this pungently earthy tuber sells for “only” $2,000 to $3,000 per pound.) Harvest generally lasts through December, and DeLaurenti will receive weekly shipments in half-pound portions as long as supplies last. Special orders can be made two-to-three days in advance and must be prepaid. www.delaurenti.com

New Willamette Valley Digs
In early October, on a gentle hill in northeast Newberg, Ore., a ground-breaking ceremony was held in honor of an 85-room country estate-style inn, spa, restaurant, and conference center that will provide the most luxurious accommodations in the Willamette Valley. The Springbrook Properties site, one of the largest new developments in the state, is owned by Newberg philanthropist and businesswoman Joan Austin and her family.

The 450-acre project will be built in phases over 10 years, and will include 1,200 homes and a retail village. The inn, spa, restaurant, and conference center—the first components—will open in late spring-2009. The development has won praise from some of the region’s most prominent winemakers because it is entirely within Newberg’s urban growth boundary and does not encroach on valuable vineyard land. www.springbrookproperties.com

Dine in the Fluff at Tigh-Na-Mara
At Vancouver Island’s Tigh-Na-Mara Seaside Spa & Conference Centre, guests at the Grotto Spa are encouraged to feast at the Treetop Tapas & Grill while lounging in their chenille robes. The Treetop is reserved exclusively for robed spa guests, who can enjoy a select few spa-cuisine-inspired tapas or a stream of Endless Tapas. Featuring local flavors and snugly ensconced by views of the forest, the Treetop is a great place to sample that Seared Thyme-Scented Scallop with Roasted Red Pepper and Corn Coulis or munch on the chef’s signature Grilled Lamb Chop with Mint au Jus and Roasted-Vegetable-and-Goat-Cheese Ragout. www.tigh-na-mara.com

Heathman Hotel and Trellis Restaurant Open in Kirkland
In early October, the Heathman hotel brand expanded from its downtown Portland roots to the shores of Lake Washington when the new Heathman Hotel Kirkland opened for business. Located at 220 Kirkland Avenue, two blocks from Moss Bay on the eastern shore of Lake Washington, the Kirkland property features 91 classic guest rooms (including 15 suites), an Art-of-Sleep bed menu, the 5,000-square-foot Penterra Spa and deluxe fitness center, 2,500 square feet of meeting space, Personal Concierge service, and Trellis, a 90-seat restaurant that features food and drink that celebrates small-scale, artisan products at the height of their seasonal quality. www.heathmanhotels.com

We can’t wait to sample Chef Brian Scheehser’s creations. The long-time chef at The Hunt Club in Seattle’s Sorrento Hotel sources fresh herbs and edible flowers from his three-acre garden at the South 47 farm. A wine list with more than 200 selections features the best that Washington, Oregon, and California vintners have to offer, and signature house cocktails are created using fresh ingredients from Scheehser’s garden. Outdoor seating for 40 people will be an added attraction come warm, sunny weather. www.trellisrestaurant.net

Happy Hour at Café Campagne
In mid-November, one of our favorite places for weekend brunching/lunching or an impromptu dinner announced the beginning of a weekday happy hour on Monday through Friday evenings, from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. Petit plats will be available for $4 and $5 each and a selection of red, white, and rosé wines may be purchased for $6. A rotating selection of high-end champagnes will also be available to taste. With choices such as Pommes Frites with Aïoli ($4) or Grilled Garlic Sausage with Roasted Red Peppers and Mustard ($5) how can you afford not to drop by? www.cafecampagne.com

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RESTO REVIEW

Barking Frog
Every now and then a dinner grabs your palate and engages your brain from the first bite, and as you work your way through several courses, it holds that interest, so that by the end of the evening you realize you have discovered something unique and very, very special. Such an experience happened to both my husband and me during a five-course tasting menu paired with wines at Barking Frog in Woodinville, Washington.

Our first course, lobster bisque, is one of those decadent, yet difficult-to-make dishes that most people choose to eat out versus make at home. Chef Bobby Moore smoked his lobster shells (“on the smoker out back, over applewood,” according to our server) before pulverizing them for the stock. The result was a lovely iteration of a classic dish—dark, smoky, toothsome bisque enhanced by a cloud of Cognac crème fraîche. The Spiced Sea Scallop Beignet was sweet and earthy, a play of textures and colors thanks to its plate mates of roasted pumpkin, mâche, pepitas (pumpkin seeds) and anise honey. Both these courses were paired with Lucien Albrecht Brut Rosé, a Cremant from Alsace, and one of the best non-vintage sparklers around.

Baby Arugula Salad, paired with Chateau Ste. Michelle 2006 Eroica Riesling, was a sturdy winter salad of candied walnuts, Oregon blue cheese, and red crimson pear vinaigrette. It managed both to satiate yet stimulate the taste buds.

Our third course, Grilled Ahi Tuna with Smoked Short Ribs, Escarole, Soy, and Miso Beurre Blanc, was an enticing merging of earth and ocean, especially when paired with the “Athena” 2004 Pinot Noir from Boedecker Cellars in the Willamette Valley. My husband said he wanted a plate of the short ribs all by themselves, they were so extraordinarily tasty.

Oven-Roasted Elk Tenderloin with Beluga Lentils, Brussel Sprouts, Crispy Smoked Bacon, and Goat-Milk Latté, my husband’s main course, was a manly-man dish with hints of espresso crunch and bitterness. The substitution of Black Cod with Prawn Pasta, Snow Peas, Shemiji Mushrooms, Baby Bok Choy, Watercress Shoots, and Cashew Salad for my main dish more than pleased me. Again, intriguing textures of lush black cod and handmade pasta, and crunchy Asian vegetables and cashews with pillow-y mushrooms made for a very complex dish. Paired with a Sangiovese, I thought this dish would have better paired with an off-dry Riesling.

By dessert time, we were both ready to simply trot back to our warm bed at Willows Lodge, but pastry chef Christina Longo’s sumptuous finale was not to be denied: Northwest Neapolitan included Spumoni Parfait, Gianduja Torte, and Hazelnut Gelato. Trevor Jones “Jonesy” Port, a non-vintage Port from the Barossa Valley, was a wise pairing, the sweet wine working well with the coffee and cream flavors in the dessert.

This $75 meal ($105 with wine pairings) was professionally paced and expertly served in the warm, embracing ambience of a true wine-country restaurant, and one of the many reasons to visit Woodinville Wine Country.

Grilled Ahi Tuna swimming in Miso Beurre Blanc along with Smoked Short Ribs and Escarole was just one of the many outstanding dishes we sampled on Barking Frog’s November tasting menu.

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SHORT TAKES

Joe Fortes Seafood & Chop House
With its central location on Robson Street, elegant dark-mahogany-paneled dining room and bar, and bursting-with-fresh-seafood-options fresh sheet, Joe Fortes Seafood & Chop House was the first place we sought out for a quiet, civilized luncheon with a good glass (or two) of Pacific Northwest wine during our hectic 48-hour book tour in Vancouver. While almost two dozen varieties of oysters on the half shell, including my favorite (Kusshi) and a premium East Coast oyster that is reputed to rival Kusshi (Pickle Point and Raspberry Point from Prince Edward Island) tempted, we opted for Chilliwack Valley Trout (“caught just about 40 miles away,” according to our expert server, Tristan) and Deep Water Rock Sole, another local favorite. Our fish came simply grilled, served with steamed seasonal vegetables and perfectly herb-roasted potatoes, and a lovely basket of both “brown” (whole-grain) and white bread. Both entrées were marked with the Ocean Wise seal, an endorsement from the Vancouver Aquarium that they were ocean-friendly seafood choices. From the extensive and Northwest-friendly wine list, we chose three British-Columbia-made wines: Joe Fortes 2005 Pinot Blanc, Golden Mile Old Vines 2006 Chenin Blanc, and Tinhorn Creek 2004 Merlot. With supremely sippable B.C. wines and simply prepared fresh seafood, Joe Fortes is safe harbor for a satisfying meal. www.joefortes.ca

The sweeping stairway at Joe Fortes overlooks the bar; the year-round roof garden is closed for remodeling now, but will reopen new and improved in early 2008. According to CityFood editor Rhonda May, the rooftop patio is very popular with locals in the summer.

The Pink Door
We’ve always loved Jackie Roberts’ one-of-a-kind Pink Door in the Pike Place Market for its over-the-top Italian ambience and sense of fun (trapeze artists perform atop diners’ heads on Monday evenings!), but since Steve Smrstik came on board, the food has also risen over the top, in a very good way. Steve, the long-time (seven years) exec chef of Flying Fish who, more recently, blazed a trail at 35th Street Bistro, brings a new element to the menu at PD—a real appreciation for and artistry with fresh seafood.

Over the Thanksgiving holiday weekend, we were wowed with a new appetizer on the menu: Trio of Smoked Fishes Cinque Terre Style. “It’s the Italian answer to sushi,” the raven-haired “Padrona” explained as she sipped a glass of 2004 Amarone. “Steve, our bartender, and I ate it all over Italy.” Unlike Japanese sushi, Steve’s thinly sliced Ahi tuna was seasoned not with shiso or sesame oil, but with capers, anchovies, and cherry tomatoes. Delicate hamachi (yellowtail) fanned over the plate in a pool of red-pepper oil. And paper-thin swordfish slices swam in oregano, mint, and garlic oil. Even PD signature dishes, such as Cioppino Pink Door with prawns, clams, mussels, and calamari, seemed more intensely flavored, the tomato-based white-wine stock richer and the seafood somehow sweeter and fresher than on past visits. Oysters on the half shell with pink balsamico ice were another seafood stunner. www.thepinkdoor.net

The Pink Door’s sumptuous Trio of Smoked Fishes Cinque Terre Style. is “the Italian answer to sushi,” according to The Pink Door’s founder and owner, Jackie Roberts, a.k.a., “La Padrona.”

23Hoyt Restaurant & Bar
It was a cold and rainy night in Portland, and I had just endured a rather disappointing booksigning at a local kitchen shop, whose normal customer base and neighborhood food traffic were scared off by the bleak weather. But just down the street, the welcoming candle-lit atmosphere and the tinkling tones of the grand piano at 23Hoyt promised respite from an otherwise cruel world. Sitting in the upper level of this two-tiered resto that felt more New-York-City-sophisticated than Portland-hip, I was reminded of one of the main reasons I love to eat out: seeing and being seen by others, observing my fellow diners’ social behavior and table manners, what they drink, and what they put into their mouths. And 23Hoyt was the perfect place to do just that.

Perhaps to counteract the inclement weather, and because I was in an obstreperous mood, I ordered something from a sunny place, as well as the most expensive item on the menu, for my main: Moroccan Fish and Shellfish Couscous with Alaskan Halibut, Manila Clams, Squid, Sea Scallops, Tomatoes, Garlic, Hot Pepper, Charmoula, and Harissa. It arrived, all hot and steamy, in a round glazed bowl, carefully arranged shellfish and finfish over perfectly cooked couscous. A small ramekin of harissa sauce that I swirled over the seafood warmed me right down to my sinuses, it was so redolent of hot, sweet spices. In keeping with the Moroccan theme, we chose the Middle Eastern Cheese Tart with Orange-Rosewater Marmalade, Pistachios, and Cranberry Coulis for dessert, a perfect blend of creaminess, exotic perfume, crunch, and tartness from the cranberries. www.23hoyt.com

Moroccan Fish and Shellfish Couscous with Alaskan Halibut, Manila Clams, Squid, Sea Scallops, Tomatoes, Garlic, Hot Pepper, Charmoula, and Harissa Sauce, as served at 23Hoyt on Portland’s Upper Westside.

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DISH OF THE MONTH

One of my long-time favorite dishes at Wild Ginger in downtown Seattle is the Seven Element Soup, a heady combination of the most tender poached chicken breast in a coconut-curry base with soft egg noodles and topped with coriander, scallions, shallots, chilies, lime juice, soy sauce, crispy noodles, and a final flourish of coconut cream. Because of the high turmeric content, customers are required to wear a plastic bib and half orders are accommodated since the soup is so rich and satisfying, growing spicier and more complex the farther down in the bowl you dive. . . Available only on the lunch menu, it is the perfect pairing with one of owner Rick Yoder’s amazing aged German or Alsatian Rieslings, or a Washington State Riesling, such as Chateau Ste. Michelle’s “Eroica” or Long Shadows Vintner’s “Poet’s Leap.” www.wildginger.net

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SUPER SIPS

Japanese-Inspired ‘Flight and Bites’ at SAM
Through January 6, 2008, TASTE Restaurant will offer a special Flight-and-Bites menu in conjunction with the “Japan Envisions the West” exhibit at the Seattle Art Museum. The menu will feature three sake tastes with three small bites. For menus and more information, visit TASTE’s blog at tastesamblog.wordpress.com.

Wine Bottles Get a Safe Journey
Since imposition of tough travel standards by the U.S. Transportation Security Administration (TSA), it’s been difficult, if nigh impossible, for air travelers to enjoy one of the time-honored traditions of wine-country travel: bringing home newfound wines to share with family and friends. To fill the gap, an Australian entrepreneur invented BottleWise Duo, the first soft-sided bag designed specifically to keep wine bottles safe during air travel. BottleWise Duo’s patent-pending, TSA-friendly design features individually padded sleeves that protect up to two 750-milliliter bottles, plus interior water-tight pouches for safeguarding luggage contents in case of breakage. Prices start at $49.

According to BottleWise Duo’s press release, all of these challenges come at a time when the appetite for culinary travel continues to grow at a rapid pace. More than 27 million travelers, or 17 percent of American leisure travelers, engaged in culinary or wine-related activities while traveling within the past three years. This according to a report released earlier this year from the Travel Industry Association, in partnership with Gourmet and the International Culinary Tourism Association. Further, with 60 percent of U.S. leisure travelers expressing interest in experiencing culinary travel in the near future, culinary travel seems poised to evolve from a niche market into a thriving industry. www.bottlewise.com

New Format for St. Nicholas Day Open House
On December 1 and 2, the wineries of Woodinville Wine Country will open their doors for the annual St. Nick’s Open House with an entirely new format. Just like the extremely popular Passport to Woodinville in the spring, a single ticket price of $50 will be offered to the public, which will provide entry to all 30 participating wineries. Only those participants carrying a St. Nick’s “Naughty or Nice” booklet will have the opportunity to taste wines from exclusive boutique wineries that are normally not open to the public, as well as special selections from a few of Woodinville’s more well-known participants. Specially prepared hors d’oeuvres will be served to complement the wines.
www.woodinvillewinecountry.com

Twin Birth Announcements
Two popular Northwest tasting rooms spawned second locations during November. Urban Wineworks (UWW), which brings customers, “Wine Country Without the Drive,” opened Urban Wineworks East at 1411 NE Broadway, in Portland’s Lloyd District, with a week-long celebration featuring its Bishop Creek Cellars wines. UWW is featured in Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining on page 131 in a profile detailing my experience of blending wine at the original location. www.urbanwineworks.com

Meanwhile, over Thanksgiving weekend and in conjunction with Wine Yakima Valley’s Thanksgiving in Wine Country festivities, The Tasting Room: Wines of Washington opened its new Yakima branch at Wilridge Vineyards. The tasting room is located amidst the vineyards in a 1900s-era historic farmhouse with more than 25 wines available for tasting. www.winesofwashington.com

Hangover Buster Purportedly Prevents Hangovers
Just in time for the holidays, Pillar Rock USA Corp. announced the launch of Hangover Buster™, an effervescent tablet specially formulated to prevent hangover symptoms such as nausea, headache, excessive thirst, fatigue, muscle ache, and sensitivity to light and noise, according to the company’s press release. Arriving in select retail drugstores, supermarkets, and convenience stores, a package of Hangover Buster™ includes three individually foil-wrapped tablets which are dissolved in water and taken throughout an evening of alcohol consumption. Each lemon-lime-flavored tablet includes a blend of Vitamins A, C, and B12 as well as ginseng extract and other F.D.A.-approved ingredients. Available over-the-counter, the product is sugar-, dairy-, and animal product-free and claims to be, “a healthy way to take care of the discomforts of a hangover by not only rehydrating the body but also by restabilizing the vital vitamins, minerals, and amino acids that have been lost as a consequence of alcohol consumption.” Plop, plop. Fizz, fizz. www.hangoverbuster.com

Braiden signs books with Chris Upchurch, winemaker/partner of DeLille Cellars in Woodinville, Washington, during the winery’s Fall Open House in November. The three-day event is attended by hundreds of people, a festive kick-off to the holiday season.

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ON THE HORIZON

Interesting upcoming events in the Pacific Northwest and beyond include the following:

December 1 Through December 16:
Braiden’s Seattle Appearances
Various Venues Throughout the City
Seattle, Mill Creek, and Lake Forest Park, WA
Braiden’s Appearances

Wednesday, December 5, 2007
Holiday Champagne Tasting
Kaspar’s Special Events & Catering
Seattle, WA
www.kaspars.com

Saturday, December 15, 2007
Holiday Winemaker Dinner featuring Daedalus Cellars with Aaron Hess
The Cellar on 10th
Astoria, OR
www.thecellaron10th.com

Saturday, January 19, 2008
The Oregon Museum of Science and Industry “Science in the Kitchen: An Evening with the Nation’s Top Culinary Alchemists”
The Oregon Museum of Science and Industry
Portland, OR
www.osmi.edu

Saturday, January 26, 2008
A Celebration of Washington Wines Black-Tie Reception, Dinner, and Auction
Chateau Ste. Michelle
Woodinville, WA
www.wineauction.wsu.edu

Saturday, January 26, 2008
Fifth Annual Winter Wine Gala
Wenatchee Valley Museum & Cultural Center
Wenatchee, WA
www.wvmcc.org

Saturday, March 1, 2008:
Classic Wines Auction
Oregon Convention Center
Portland, OR
www.classicwinesauction.com

Saturday, April 26, 2008
Winemaker Dinner featuring Cathedral Ridge Winery (2007 Oregon Winery of the Year from Wine Press Northwest magazine)
The Cellar on 10th
Astoria, OR
www.thecellaron10th.com

NEWSY NOTES

Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining Update

The official publication date for my seventh book, Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining, took place on October 29, but even before that I was off to Orlando to debut the book at the Epcot Food & Wine Festival. Much had changed and improved since my first appearance at Epcot in 2003: my two culinary demos were moved inside to a glitzy stage with impressive banks of lights, an excellent audio system and monitors, and a cadre of Viking appliances including an induction stovetop. Pam Smith, long-time festival host, and I cooked together and bantered like old friends. The oversold crowd enjoyed sampling Wild King Salmon with Macerated Cherries and Smoked Almond Beurre Noisette. The recipe, from Steelhead Diner in the Pike Place Market, paired perfectly with the bright cherry and berry flavors and balanced acidity of Willamette Valley Vineyards extraordinary 2006 Whole Cluster Fermented Pinot Noir. Some interesting characters showed up for the booksignings after the demos, as you can tell from the photo below.

Just two days back from Epcot, and it was time to celebrate the book’s launch in Seattle with a publication party at Steelhead Diner. Three-hundred-and-seventy invitations sent all over the country and into Canada yielded more than 100 attendees, who downed hundreds of appetizer-sized portions of four recipes from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining and sampled 48 leading Northwest wines (many difficult-to-obtain outside their home regions). Former Seattle garden and design writer Debra Prinzing, since transplanted to Los Angeles, made a surprise and much appreciated appearance as “Ms. X,” while Dallasites Mary Pfanenstiel and daughter Mari Coppock took advantage of the book-launch invite to escape the 80-degree Texas heat. Ingo Grady, director of wine, and wife Patti drove their hybrid Honda from West Bank, British Columbia, in order to pour Mission Hill Family Estate Reserve Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, and Riesling Icewine for the appreciative crowds. Long-time independent Seattle booksellers Michael Coy and Michael Brasky, of M.Coy Books & Espresso, donated partial proceeds from the night’s book sales to the Pike Market Medical Clinic.

And a good time was had by all. . .

To purchase a copy of Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining, please go to your local bookseller or visit Amazon’s Web site, www.amazon.com

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Pike Place Market News

Last month, the Pike Place Market neighborhood was designated as one of 10 Great Neighborhoods for 2007 through the American Planning Association (APA) Great Places in America program. The Pike Place Market was selected for its functionality, memorable characteristics, and livability. “With a history as rich and colorful as the produce it sells, the community that is part of the Market is Seattle’s most compact, walkable, and diverse neighborhood,” according to APA’s press release. James Haydu, director of communications at the Market added, “We’re an intersection of commerce and humanity—a social experiment that has thrived for a century.” Having lived a tomato’s toss from the Market for the past 17 years, and now considered one of the original “urban pioneers,” I can heartily attest to the Market’s endearing charms. www.planning.org/greatplaces

In related news, the historic Alexis Hotel, at the corner of First Avenue and Madison Street several blocks south of the Market, held a glitzy coming-out party to celebrate its recent $10-million facelift. A Kimpton property that hadn’t been remodeled in 15 years, the hotel celebrates art in a big way, with a gallery-inspired look that boasts luxurious guest rooms complete with private dining rooms, media rooms with overstuffed sofas and libraries, and suites with wood-burning fireplaces and jetted tubs. www.alexishotel.com

The newly renovated lobby of the Alexis Hotel shows off some of the motifs found throughout the $10 million remodel—airy chandeliers, sumptuous wallcoverings, and the color silver—all of which make the circa-1901 property seem much more “Kimpton-esque” than before.

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Dine Around Seattle

Dine Around Seattle, formerly known as 25 for $25, has a new name and price point this November. Five new restaurants will be added to the fine-dining roster, bringing the total to 30 participating restaurants. Additionally, the three-course dinner price will rise to $30. During the month-long event, restaurants will be highlighting the wines of Walla Walla on their Dine Around Seattle menus by the glass, bottle, or tasting. Joining the November promotion are Barolo Ristorante, BOKA Kitchen + Bar, Mixtura Restaurant, 35th Street Bistro, and Veil. www.dinearoundseattle.org

Oregon 2008 Travel Guide

The Willamette Valley Wineries Association has released the new 2008 Guide to Willamette Valley Wineries, which is free of charge and comprised of 167 member wineries and tasting rooms. The guide is available at visitor associations, hotels, and travel centers throughout Oregon, or by ordering online. With a map and listings for wineries and tasting rooms located throughout the Willamette Valley’s seven American Viticultural Areas (AVAs), traveling the back roads of Oregon’s Willamette Valley wine region has never been easier! www.willamettewines.

Something’s Cookin’ in the Okanagan

Hainle Vineyard Restaurant, located at Hainle Winery in Peachland, British Columbia, has started offering Producers Cookery School. According to the press release, “Housed amid the stunning scapes of Deep Creek Wine Estate & Hainle Vineyards in the province’s sunny Okanagan wine region, inspiration proves bountiful for those seeking a culinary education—or at least a tipple of the winery’s noted vintages.” Classes include The Cook and the Winemaker, Autumn in Europe, and An Elegant Intimate Dinner Party. www.hainle.com

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RESTO REVIEW

Wining and Dining in Central Florida

During six days in Orlando, Florida, visiting my family and doing two culinary demos at Epcot, I took advantage of my time away from home to sample a plethora of good (and different!) local foods and wine. Among my favorite re-discoveries was stone crab, a hard-shelled creature with beautiful orange, cream, and black markings. I enjoyed five claws for the rather princely ransom of $42 at Houston’s, a high-quality chain restaurant in Winter Park, Florida. Perfectly cracked, sweet, and tender, the claws were sauced with a rich mayonnaise laced with toasted sesame oil, and paired perfectly with the citrus-y crispness of a high-quality New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.

Jiko, the African-inspired restaurant at Disney World’s Animal Kingdom Lodge, boasts the United States’ largest collection of South African wines, with intriguing, spicy-good cuisine to match. At Jiko, which translates as “The Cooking Place,” we ate our way through several appetizers—Taste of Africa (Kalamata-Olive Hummus, Malay Spinach-Lentil Dip, and Flaxseed Naan Bread, among other offerings); Roasted Golden Chanterelle Soup with White Truffle Whipped Cream; and my favorite: Maize and Sweet Potato “Tamales,” a tender-sweet herbed maize pudding and truffled sweet-potato mash stuffed with shredded goat cheese, all encased in a corn husk “boat!” Our entrée selection of Pan-Roasted Jumbo Scallops offered the intriguing textural contrast of Golden Brown Mealie “Pop” (African grits) and a gloriously spicy Tomato-Onion “Chakalaka.” An enticing bottle of Pinotage, often noted for its herbaceous and grassy notes, proved a delight. Aromatic as a very floral Pinot Noir, its color was similar to a Gamay, with low tannins and a perfectly integrated mouthfeel.

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SHORT TAKES

Experts Discuss Organics at Tilth Dinners

Chef Maria Hines, chef/owner of Tilth restaurant in Seattle’s Wallingford neighborhood, has long been a champion of eating locally and sustainably. So it’s no surprise that she wants to encourage a dialogue about organics. Beginning on November 5, she has created a series of dinners, each of which will feature a different panel of experts and advocates who will discuss the topic at hand. The cost is $80 plus tax and gratuity. Wines are
included. Topics include: Organics and Sustainability 101 (November 5, 6 p.m.); Organic and Sustainable Shopping Made Easy (December 10, 6 p.m.), and How Eating Organically Benefits You and the Earth (January 14, 6 p.m.). You’ll enjoy Chef Maria’s
recipe for Golden Beet Tartare in Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining. www.tilthreataurant.com

Cascadia Monthly Dinner Update

Having celebrated a BIG birthday last fall in Burgundy, we were intrigued by Chef Kerry Sear’s Burgundy dinner, a five-course tasting menu that ran through the month of September at Cascadia in downtown Seattle. The dinner, sparked by Chef Kerry’s family trip to France, began with Charcuterie du Marché de Beaune that included both pork and duck prosciutto, fresh goat cheese, a tiny dice of cornichons, and a squiggle of an amazingly flavorful Verjus-Dijon Mustard Sauce. Corn-Fed Breast of Chicken with Black Truffle Shroud recalled many hearty main dishes we sampled during our time in Burgundy. Its rich brown sauce was awash in Chanterelles, lardoons, and Flageolet beans—the perfect way to welcome in autumn. Cassis Cake with Fromage Blanc and Cassis Sorbet set our minds wandering back to France, and determined to finally cull and catalogue all the photos from our trip. The Burgundy dinner was part of Cascadia’s All Month Long series, which is described on the Web site as: “Whether it’s champagne by-the-glass, our singular Valentine’s Bubble menu, participation in Seattle’s “Twenty-Five for $25” event, or something Kerry dreamed up and wants to share, every month at Cascadia brings something unique that lasts for not just an evening or a week, but All Month Long. Prices vary accordingly.” www.cascadiarestaurant.com

The Pilgrimage to Edible British Columbia

Every since Eric Pateman opened Edible British Columbia in the spring of 2005, I’ve been intrigued by his monthly e-newsletters and alluring Web site that trumpet the Pacific Northwest’s specialty-food products, cooking classes, and local chefs. Finally, over the Labor Day weekend, I was able to experience his beautifully designed space in the Granville Public Market for myself. Surrounded by jars and bottles of Northwest-produced specialty foods, I couldn’t help but go home with a bottle of Sweet Tree Birch Syrup, a molasses-like liquid that the helpful clerk told me not only goes well over pancakes, but makes an intriguing addition to marinades. I’ve already experimented with the Lobster Mushroom Powder, lightly dusted on salmon fillets along with pink sea salt, Shichimi Togarashi (Japanese Seven-Spice Pepper), and lightly grilled. Perfect with a bottle of Oregon Pinot Noir, which really picks up the earthy, mushroom-y flavors! I also added to my cookbook collection, including a copy of The British Columbia Seasonal Cookbook (Long Pine Press, 2007), which Eric co-authored. www.edible-britishcolumbia.com

Bookin’ It at Barbara-Jo’s

Barbara-Jo’s Books to Cooks, right across the street from Edible British Columbia in Granville Island’s Net Loft, was another foodie mecca I’d been meaning to visit for years. Barbara-Jo’s boasts two locations, with the Net Loft being the smaller and more intimate, a bookstore only. Outside the Granville Island Public Market, and well within walking distance, is the larger location, which includes a demonstration kitchen and seating area and a wider selection of books. I’ll be doing a recipe sampling and wine pairing there on November 22 at 6:30. Cost is $60 and the event is open to 25 guests. www.bookstocooks.com

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DISH OF THE MONTH

Marjorie restaurant Organic Chicken Tikka Masala with Yogurt Raita and Housemade Naan is served as an appetizer, but also serves as a light(er) meal when paired with the Wild Arugula Salad with Shaved Radicchio, Toasted Pinenuts, Parmesan, and Sun-Dried Tomato Vinaigrette or another appetizer. Pair with an off-dry Riesling; the wine’s slight sweetness will mellow the spicy-hotness of the dish.

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SUPER SIPS

Joie to the World

Joie Wines 2006 A Noble Blend has been awarded a gold medal at the 2007 Canadian Wine Awards, automatically qualifying it as one of only six finalists for Canadian White Wine of the Year. The announcement for Canadian White Wine of the Year and other major awards will be made in the December 2007/January 2008 issue of Wine Access magazine. A Noble Blend was one of the wines we enjoyed several times during a Labor Day visit to Vancouver. Aromatic and appealing, the wine is made in the spirit of Edelzwicker or Gentil, the traditional Germanic-varietal blend of the Alsace region of France, according to Joie’s Web site, which goes on to state, “The 2006 Noble Blend is a blend of Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Kerner, Ehernfelser and Riesling.” We found the wine to be extremely food friendly, as well as offering a pleasing price point. You will enjoy cookbook author and co-owner of Joie, Heidi Noble’s, lovely recipe for Claybank Farm Lavender Biscuits in Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining. www.joie.ca

Pinot in Portland

The Hotel Vintage Plaza, Portland’s only wine-themed hotel, offers visiting oenophiles the Oregon wine experience in the heart of downtown thanks to its dazzling new “Pinot in Portland” package. Among some of the amenities included are overnight accommodations for two in a room dedicated to a local winery, the opportunity to blend wine at locally based Urban Wineworks (read my impressions of this very enjoyable experience in Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining), a bottle of 2005 Chateau Bianca Pinot Noir, two Riedel Oregon Pinot Noir glasses, a wine journal, and a private session with Pazzo Ristorante’s wine director (based upon availability). www.vintageplaza.com

Pike Pub Reborn

Seattle-based Pike Pub & Brewery celebrated it’s 18th “re-birthday” on October 17, with a cast of hundreds, food for thousands, and beer for everyone in attendance. The pub, started by Rose Ann and Charles Finkel in 1989, was later sold to a large concern in 1997. In a surprise move, the Finkels bought back the pub in 2006 and spent the next year upgrading the menu with the introduction of new organic, regional, and seasonal options, along with a complete re-do of the wine selections. Son Andrew Finkel designed a new entryway, reception stand, Museum Bar on two levels for private dining, and expanded restaurant, kitchen, office, and restroom facilities so that the pub now boasts a stunning new interior and thrilling new menu. www.pikepub.com

Extraordinary Dining Society Announced

Noted Seattle Sommelier Jake Kosseff has launched the Extraordinary Dining Society, a series of dinners featuring rare vintage wines paired with cuisine from the most respected chefs in the region. The first-ever Extraordinary Dining Society dinner will take place at The Herbfarm in Woodinville, Wash., with newly appointed chef Keith Luce on Thursday, November 29, 2007. The theme of dinner will be Some Like it Haut: Great French Wines of the 1980’s. The nine-course dinner will feature world renowned wine such as 1989 Comte de Vogue Musigny Vieilles Vignes, 1988 Chateau d’Yquem and 1982 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild. And priced at $1,150 per person, and with very limited space available, Some Like it Haut may just be one of the most expensive, if not the most expensive, wine dinners ever offered in the Pacific Norhwest. Reservations for the inaugural dinner can be made through The Herbfarm by calling (425) 485-5300 between the hours of 10:00 a.m. and 5:00 p.m. daily. The next dinner in the series will feature rare and exceptional wines from the Rhône Valley with Chef Jason Wilson of Crush in January 2008. Upcoming chefs in the series will include Jonathan Sundstrom of Lark and Thierry Rautureau of Rover’s. www.extraordinarydiningsociety.com

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ON THE HORIZON

Interesting upcoming events in the Pacific Northwest and beyond include the following:

Saturday, November 3, 2007:
March of Dimes Signature Chefs Auction
Sheraton Seattle Hotel & Towers
Seatttle, WA
www.marchofdimes.com/washington

Thursday, November 8 through Saturday, November 12, 2007:
Cornucopia: Whistler’s Celebration of Food and Wine
House Party, ARTrageous Afterparty, Winemaker Dinners, Crush! Gala Grand Tasting, and Many Other Enticing Events
Various Whistler Resorts
Whistler, British Columbia
www.whistlercornucopia.com

Saturday, November 10, 2007:
Lombardi’s Garlic Festival 20th Anniversary Gala
Lombardi’s Ballard Restaurant
Seattle, WA
www.lombardsitalian.com

Wednesday, November 14 through Friday, November 16
Braiden’s Portland Book Tour
Various Venues Throughout the City
Portland, OR
Braiden’s Appearances

Friday through Sunday, November 23-35, 2007:
Wine Country Thanksgiving
120 Willamette Valley Wineries
Willamette Valley, OR
www.willamettewines.com

Wednesday, November 21 Through Sunday, November 25
Braiden’s Vancouver Book Tour
Various Venues Throughout the City
Vancouver, BC
Braiden’s Appearances

Saturday and Sunday, November 23-24, 2007:
Thanksgiving in Wine Country
Yakima Valley Wineries
Yakima Valley, WA
www.wineyakimavalley.org

Thursday, November 29, 2007:
Walla Walla Winemakers’ Fête
Hosted by Walla Walla Valley Winemakers
Walla Walla Valley, WA
www.wwvwa.com

Saturday, December 15, 2007
Holiday Winemaker Dinner featuring Daedalus Cellars with Aaron Hess
The Cellar on 10th
Astoria, OR
www.thecellaron10th.com

Saturday, January 19, 2008:
The Oregon Museum of Science and Industry “Science in the Kitchen: An Evening with the Nation’s Top Culinary Alchemists”
The Oregon Museum of Science and Industry
Portland, OR
www.osmi.edu

Saturday, January 26, 2008:
A Celebration of Washington Wines Black-Tie Reception, Dinner, and Auction
Chateau Ste. Michelle
Woodinville, WA
www.wineauction.wsu.edu

Saturday, March 1, 2008:
Classic Wines Auction
Oregon Convention Center
Portland, OR
www.classicwinesauction.com

Saturday, April 26, 2008
Winemaker Dinner featuring Cathedral Ridge Winery (2007 Oregon Winery of the Year from Wine Press Northwest magazine)
The Cellar on 10th
Astoria, OR
www.thecellaron10th.com

Newsy Notes

Pigs Parade One Last Time!

On Thursday, October 12, the 100 delightfully decorated swine that have graced Seattle sidewalks throughout the summer will make their final march to market to be auctioned off at the Westin Hotel as part of the Pigs on Parade 2007 Auction. Auctioneer John Curley of KING-TV’s “Evening Magazine” will award these “porkers with a purpose” to the highest bidders. The evening includes a cocktail reception, Pig Preview, sit-down dinner (or, there’s a dessert-only option), and live auction. www.pigsonparade.org

Other Market events of note this month include the 24th Annual Feast at the Market (October 2) and the Friends of the Market Annual Meeting (October 30). www.pikemed.org/feast

“When Pigs Fly” is one of 100 pretty porkers that will be auctioned off during the Pigs on Parade 2007 Auction.

Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining Update

On Tuesday, September 4, at 9:48 a.m., I received an advance copy of Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining and literally wept with joy as I held it in my hands for the very first time. Like a newborn, it was bright, shining, and perfect. Even the ink smelled good!

To help build favorable “buzz” for the book, my publisher, John Wiley & Sons, played a very active role in the Pacific Northwest Booksellers Association Fall Tradeshow held at Meydenbauer Hall in Bellevue, Washington, in September. Along with the former actress Meg Tilly, fiction writer Sue Miller, Seattle Congressman Jay Inslee, and six other authors, I was invited to participate in the fourth annual Author Feast. During the feast, each author moved from table to table at 20-minute intervals chatting up his or her book and answering booksellers’ questions. Many likened it to speed dating (!), and it was an alternately exhilarating and exhausting experience. www.pnba.org

This month, I’ll head to the Epcot Food & Wine Festival in Orlando. It’s my second time at Epcot, where I’ll prepare Wild King Salmon with Macerated Cherries and Smoked Almond Beurre Noisette, a recipe from Steelhead Diner (see Resto Review, below) and pair it with Willamette Valley Vineyards 2006 Whole Cluster Fermented Pinot Noir during two culinary demonstrations on October 26 and 27. www.disney.com

And articles and reviews of Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining are starting to roll in. Seattle Magazine, which featured a review in its October “Scoop” section, said, “All in all, Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining sheds much-needed light on the wonderful culinary movement that’s sprung up in tandem with the Northwest’s ever-expanding wine industry.”

To purchase a copy of Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining, please go to your local bookseller or visit Amazon’s Web site, www.amazon.com

Braiden “speed dates” her way through the Author Feast at the Pacific Northwest Booksellers Association Fall Tradeshow.

C Celebrates X

Over Labor Day weekend, Spencer and I journeyed up to one of our favorite cities in the world, Vancouver, British Columbia. We’d already made reservations at one of our favorite restaurants in the world, C restaurant, when we learned it was (coincidentally) throwing a big birthday bash in honor of its 10th anniversary that very weekend! With perfect sunny/cool weather, under the shadow of the Granville Island Bridge, owner Harry Kambolis and Executive Chef Rob Clark reflected on the reasons for C’s longevity, while the glittery crowd (women in strappy summer dresses and fanciful wide-brimmed hats) sipped British Columbia bubbly while sampling delectable seafood nibbles. www.crestaurant.com

Vancouver’s foodie press corps, as well as family and friends of owner Harry Kambolis, made the scene under the Granville Island Bridge as C turned X.

The Herbfarm Names New Exec Chef

On August 29, the venerable Herbfarm announced that Keith M. Luce, executive chef of Consentino Winery in Yountville, California, would succeed long-time Herbfarm fixture (17 years) Jerry Traunfeld as executive chef as of October 1, 2007. Luce boasts an impressive pedigree, having cooked his way around the world including New York City (The Rainbow Room, Le Cirque, La Côte Basque), Europe, The Greenbrier, The White House (yes, that White House!), Chicago (Spruce), Aspen (Little Nell), and California (PlumpJack and his own restaurant, Merenda, in San Francisco). Luce is only the fourth chef in the Herbfarm’s history.

Meanwhile, Chef Jerry plans to open an Indian-themed restaurant in the South Lake Union neighborhood of Seattle in early 2008. Jerry’s recipe for Sea Scallops with Spiced Carrot-Dill Sauce, a lengthy headnote, and five photos appear in the Woodinville section of Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining.

Oregon Bounty Tickles Tastebuds

From October 1 through November 30, the fourth annual Oregon Bounty celebration allows both locals and visitors alike to experience Oregon during its most flavorful time of the year. “The Oregon Bounty celebration features the opportunity to sample the latest vintages at more than 10 local wineries; take part in harvest festivals; experience artisan products; enjoy one-of-a-kind overnight stays at nearly 100 inns and hotels; and meet the growers, chefs, winemakers, and brewmasters who make it all happen,” according to a press release. www.traveloregon.com

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RESTO REVIEW

Steelhead Diner

Since it opened in February 2007, Steelhead Diner in the Pike Place Market has garnered rave reviews and crushing crowds who clamor for Chef/Owner Kevin Davis’s Northwest-meets-New-Orleans cuisine. On numerous visits, I’ve sampled through many items on the menu, and not one has left me disappointed. Among my favorites: Jumbo Lump Dungeness Crab Cake with Crispy Parsley & Sauce Louis. It’s a golden puff of crab, not much (if any) filler, and a kicky Louis dressing. Chicken & Andouille Sausage Gumbo features Uli’s Sausage (one of the many products Chef Kevin sources from nearby Pike Place Market vendors) and large chunks of white-meat chicken in a smooth, medium-spicy gumbo base that is complex and belly warming. Full Circle Farms Organic Lettuces, perfectly clean and dried, are tossed with blueberries, goat cheese, spiced walnuts, and white-balsamic vinaigrette. While not a personal favorite, Poutine, a New Orleans snack food that features Beecher’s fresh cheese curds melted over French fries with a side of gravy for dunking would be the perfect anti-hangover food. This dish also displays the chef’s New Orleans’ roots, where he served a stint as executive chef at the venerable Arnaud’s, and later held the same position at Seattle’s Sazerac.

Among the mains, the Kasu-Marinated Black Cod with Asian sidekicks—baby bok choy, shiitake mushrooms, and ginger salad—shows Chef Kevin’s finesse with seafood (he was former exec chef at The Oceanaire Seafood Room). This item, along with the Kurobata Pork Tenderloin, Eastern Washington Lamb Top Round, Dry-Aged Washington Beef N.Y. Strip Steak, and Wild King Salmon, is available in half or whole portions. Sandwiches, impressively architectural stacks of protein (or vegetables) and bread, include Buttermilk Fried Chicken, Wagyu Beef Burger, and Heirloom Tomato. Don’t miss Chef Kevin’s house-made, hand-stretched mozzarella. I enjoyed it wrapped around cherry tomatoes, drizzled with EVOO and balsamic vinegar, and sprinkled with sea salt, freshly ground black pepper, and delicately fried fresh parsley.

Steelhead Diner’s wine list, composed entirely of Northwest wines, was cited as an Outstanding Washington Wine List in the fall issue of Wine Press Northwest magazine. On it you’ll discover unusual yet food-friendly varieties (Pinot Auxerrois, Malbec, Arneis) from boutique and up-and-coming wineries (Willis Hall, Abacela, Brandborg) with limited production and/or that are difficult to source (including options from British Columbia and Idaho). Creative cocktails include the Grand Coulee Martini, named in honor of Washington State’s famous Grand Coulee Dam. It’s made of white-truffle-infused vodka and garnished with Copper River salmon-stuffed olives. Don’t miss dessert, where Theo’s Chocolate Pecan Pie, Lavender Crème Brulée, and Ligurian Lemon Cake are sure to please any sweet tooth.

Steelhead describes itself as “Diner, Evolved.” And whether you sit at the counter seats that face the kitchen or one of the low-cut booths in the sunny-bright space that boasts Market and Elliott Bay views, you’ll agree this smart-casual diner does food up right.

Heirloom Beet Tartare with Rolling Stone Lavender-Anise Goat Cheese and Crispy Yucca and Taro Chips is one of the alluring appetizers at Steelhead Diner.

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SHORT TAKES

Nothing Poke-y About It

Dan Thiessen, Chef/Owner of the spectacular 0/8 Seafood Grill and Twisted Cork Wine Bar in Bellevue, Washington, will defend his title as Northwest Regional Poke Competition champion in Oahu during Sam Choy’s National Poke Contest. The contest will be held at the Turtle Bay Hilton Resort on October 14. We’ll let you know if he retains his title, or if other local chefs such as John Howie (Seastar) or Steve Cain (Waterfront Seafood Grill) reign supreme. www.08seafoodgrill.com

Flying Fish Flying High

On a recent Sunday evening visit to Flying Fish, we were delighted to see our buddy Chris Keff strolling among the tables, when she wasn’t hovering over the stove, since the recent departure of former executive chef Angie Roberts (see the September issue of Northwest Notes for further details). That memorable evening, we had some of the freshest, most flavorful seafood in recent memory. We started with Penn Cove Mussel and Tomato Chowder with potatoes, leeks, and croutons, a heaping bowl of tomato-based soup chock-full of veggies and seafood. A mound of mouth-watering Mother-in-Law Mussels was served with a bracing Chili-Lime Dipping Sauce. Either dish could have been a meal in itself, especially when paired with any one of the seasonal salads. Meanwhile, the Whole Fried Rockfish with Lemongrass Marinade (served with rice paper and fresh herbs for wrapping) was its usual messy, yummy self. A bottle of Bergevin Lane 2006 Calico White from Washington’s Columbia Valley went well with all the seafood dishes we sampled. www.flyingfishrestaurant.com

Quinn’s Gastropub to Open on Halloween

In one of the spookiest restaurant-opening dates in recent memory, Quinn’s Gastropub, the younger sibling to the long-running (seven years) Restaurant Zoë, plans to open on Halloween Day. Restaurant Zoë was named for Chef/Owner Scott Staples daughter; not to be outdone, Quinn’s is named after his son. Wife and interior designer Heather Staples is putting the final touches on the pub, located in a vintage building in Capitol Hill at 1001 East Pike Street. At Quinn’s, Chef Scott will focus on whole lamb and beef to create dishes using all parts of the animal paired with a wide selection of microbrews and wines by the glass and half bottle, with an emphasis on Italy and Spain. www.restaurantzoe.com

East Coast Sea Scallops with Corn, Smoked Bacon, Lobster Mushrooms, and Black Lentils assured us all was ship-shape in the kitchen at Restaurant Zoë as Chef Scott Staples prepares to open Quinn’s Gastropub.

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DISH OF THE MONTH

Barolo Restaurant’s Spaghetti with Cherry Tomatoes and Dungeness Crab serves as a lovely transitional dish from lighter summer foods to heartier autumn fare. Pair with a bottle of Lemberger. Its peppery notes and light to medium body work well with delicate-in-texture, tomato-based pasta dishes. www.barolo.com

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SUPER SIPS

Wine Advocate Praises Washington Wines

The Washington Wine Commission reports that Robert M. Parker’s venerable Wine Advocate has listed a record-breaking number of 90+ scores for Washington State wines. In an August 28th review, Dr. Jay Miller rated 164 Washington wines 90 points (“outstanding”) or higher, almost twice as many as the previous review in April 2006. Three wines scored 99 points. According to Dr. Miller, “[t]oday Washington is one of the leaders in the production of world-class Syrah, much of it coming out of Walla Walla AVA (American Viticultural Area). . .the weather is ideal for grape growing. . .Washington State is now one of the world’s most exciting viticultural regions.” www.washingtonwine.org

Art + Wine = A Perfect Pairing

Over 35 wineries will provide gallery space for a month-long celebration of wine-making and artistry during Savor the Art 2007. The celebration kicks off with a gala and auction at the picturesque Terra Blanca Winery in Benton City, Washington, on October 6. Chef Frank Magana will prepare gourmet appetizers from local foods, while guests enjoy both silent and live auctions of wine-country experiences and art. www.wineyakimavalley.com

It’s a Weinfest!

Steppe Cellars, a small, two-year-old winery in Washington’s Rattlesnake Hills American Viticultural Area (AVA), will hold a Federweisser and Zwielbelkuchen Celebration on Saturday, October 13. Guests can sample federweisser (new wine) along with zwiebelkuchen (onion cake) and wurst (sausage). Steppe Cellars German-trained winemaker specializes in dry Riesling, off-dry Gewürztraminer, Semillon, Late-Harvest Riesling, Syrah, and Merlot. www.steppecellars.com

Tacos and Tequila at Sazerac

On October 4, Sazerac restaurant in downtown Seattle will shift its focus from New Orleans to Mexico, with a Tacos and Tequila Dinner. Several different tacos, such as Cedar-Roasted Mahi-Mahi Tacos with Citrus and Cilantro and Potato and Organic Chile Tacos, will be paired with five different tequilas, including El Jimador Reposado, Herradura Añejo, and Herradura Silver. www.sazeracrestaurant.com

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ON THE HORIZON

Interesting upcoming events in the Pacific Northwest and beyond include the following:

Saturday and Sunday, October 13 and 14, 2007:

6th Annual Dungeness Crab & Seafood Festival (“Crabfest”)
Port Angeles, WA
www.crabfestival.org

Sunday, October 14, 2007:

7th Annual Wild About Game Event
Resort at the Mountain
Welches, OR
www.nickyusa.com

Monday, October 15, 2007:

Northwest Wine Academy 2nd Annual Wine Release Party
South Seattle Community College, Wine Building
Seattle, WA
www.nwwineacademy.com

Tuesday, October 23, 2007:

Puget Soundkeeper Alliance “Salute to the Sound”
The Seattle Aquarium, Pier 59 at the Waterfront
Seattle, WA
206.297.7002

Monday, October 29, 2007:

Official Publication Date for Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining
Bookstores across the country
www.wiley.com; www.amazon.com

Saturday, November 3, 2007:

March of Dimes Signature Chefs Auction
Sheraton Seattle Hotel & Towers
Seatttle, WA
www.marchofdimes.com/washington

Saturday, November 10, 2007:

Lombardi’s Garlic Festival 20th Anniversary Gala
Lombardi’s Ballard Restaurant
Seattle, WA
www.lombardsitalian.com

Friday through Sunday, November 23-35, 2007:

Wine Country Thanksgiving
120 Willamette Valley Wineries
Willamette Valley, OR
www.willamettewines.com

Saturday and Sunday, November 23-24, 2007:

Thanksgiving in Wine Country
Yakima Valley Wineries
Yakima Valley, WA
www.wineyakimavalley.org

Thursday, November 29, 2007:

Walla Walla Winemakers’ Fête
Hosted by Walla Walla Valley Winemakers
Walla Walla Valley, WA
www.wwvwa.com

Saturday, January 19, 2008:

The Oregon Museum of Science and Industry “Science in the Kitchen: An Evening with the Nation’s Top Culinary Alchemists”
The Oregon Museum of Science and Industry
Portland, OR
www.osmi.edu

Saturday, January 26, 2008:

A Celebration of Washington Wines Black-Tie Reception, Dinner, and Auction
Chateau Ste. Michelle
Woodinville, WA
www.wineauction.wsu.edu

Saturday, March 1, 2008:

Classic Wines Auction
Oregon Convention Center
Portland, OR
www.classicwinesauction.com

Newsy Notes

Pike Place Market 100th Birthday Recap!

Friday, August 17, the Pike Place Market’s 100th birthday, started off right on schedule at 8 a.m., as volunteers from Friends of the Market handed out hundreds of Le Panier onion tarts and cups of Starbucks coffee under the Market clock. Shortly before 10 a.m., horse-drawn wagons driven by actors in period costume and brimming with fresh produce turned the corner from First Avenue onto Pike Place, just as they had done 100 years before.

Market Buskers held court on the Centennial Days Stage until the Lunchtime Program began, when local politicos and members of the Market’s founding families—the Revelles, Desimones, and Goodwins—were introduced. An aerial photograph commemorated the momentous occasion, a pretty pink-and-white birthday cake celebrated 100 years, and the afternoon wound down with a Centennial Championship Salmon Toss, chef demos, and the Zucchini 500 race.

That evening, the much-publicized Market Party in Steinbrueck Park attracted a sizeable crowd that swayed to the sounds of Seattle-based vocalists and musicians such as Ernestine Anderson, Chris Ballew, and Mike McCready. All in all, the city’s most celebrated centenarian couldn’t have asked for a more lively and festive birthday party.

Earlier in the week, to help celebrate the Market’s 100th, Lynne Rossetto Kaspar, host of National Public Radio’s “The Splendid Table,” featured the recipe for Halibut with Sun-Dried Tomato Tapenade from my Pike Place Public Market Seafood Cookbook in her weekly e-newsletter. As a result, that book hit #1 on the Amazon Northwest bestsellers list for several days running. Thanks, Lynne! splendidtable.org

Horsedrawn carriages along Pike Place recall the Market’s opening day on August 17, 1907.

Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining Update

Even though it won’t hit bookstores until next month, Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining has been featured on Amazon’s Northwest bestseller list the past several weeks. Don’t forget to lock in the very reasonable pre-publication price for the book by ordering your copy (or copies!) on amazon.com NOW.

On Thursday, September 20, I will attend the Pacific Northwest Booksellers Association (PNBA) annual fall tradeshow at Meydenbauer Hall in downtown Bellevue, Washington, to help introduce Pacific Northwest Wining & Diningto the retail booksellers represented there. During the fourth annual Author Feast, 20 authors (including yours truly) will move from table to table at 20-minute intervals throughout the evening discussing our new books and answering booksellers’ questions. Each author will visit a total of six tables, while the booksellers enjoy their meals. Talk about a true case of “as the tables turn!”

Nutshell Cracks Open in Portland

In early August, Nutshell opened its doors in Portland, offering diners “a vegan menu focusing on creative, equatorial dishes, without the standard use of tofu, tempeh, and substitution soy-based ‘meat,’” according to the press release. Chef Sean Coryell focuses on dishes from around the Equator, such as Jamaican Choco Escovitch (a salad of merlatan squash over greens with angostura-cream dressing and fried cucumbers), Nutshell Cassoulet (with roasted mirepoix, corona beans, red wine, crisp shallots, spinach, fleur du sel, and smoked paprika), and Chocolate Black Boss Porter Torte. Prior to opening Nutshell, Chef Coryell worked at Tabla Mediterranean Bistro and Zefiro in Portland, Rubicon in San Francisco, and the Coyote Café in Santa Fe. nutshellpdx.com

“Lunch and Learn” at Mission Hill Family Estate

Through October 7, visitors to Mission Hill Family Estate, the monumental Tuscan-style winery in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley, can experience the winery’s “Cuisine du Terroir” philosophy—a desire to utilize only the freshest local and seasonal ingredients—at the stunning Terrace Restaurant overlooking Lake Okanagan. Prepared by long-time winery chef Michael Allemeier, popular pairings include winery-made wild boar sausages and Puy lentil cassoulet with boar belly complemented by a glass of Mission Hill’s Reserve Shiraz. After lunch, take your “yearn to learn” one step further by exploring the on-site vineyards or the dramatic underground cellars. Private sessions for Sommelier Selected Tastings or the Chef’s Table are also available for those in search of even higher education. missionhillwinery.com

James Beard Foundation Celebrates 20 Years

In celebration of its 20th anniversary, the James Beard Foundation is hosting Taste America™, a national food festival. Events will take place simultaneously in 20 American cities over the weekend of September 28 and 29.

The Seattle Gala Dinner, to be held at Russell’s heritage loft barn in Bothell, Washington, on Friday, September 28, highlights James Beard Best Chef Northwest winners Tamara Murphy of Brasa (1995 winner), Thierry Rautureau of Rover’s (1998), Eric Tanaka of Tom Douglas Restaurants (2004), and John Sundstrom of Lark and Licorous (2007), plus guest chefs Kathy Casey of Dish d’Lish, Russell Lowell of Russell’s, and Charles Ramseyer of Wild Salmon in New York City. Two hundred guests will enjoy seasonal fare prepared using produce donated by Full Circle Farm, Willie Greens Organic Farm, and Ninety Farms (among others); wines donated by 10 Washington-state wineries; and a signature James Beard cocktail created by Kathy Casey. Tickets cost $150 per person. tasteamerica@earthlink.net

The Portland event, a benefit celebration for the proposed Public Market at Union Station, will also take place on Friday, September 28, at Union Station. The walk-around tasting will be prepared by James Beard award-winning chefs including Philippe Boulot (The Heathman Restaurant), Greg Higgins (Higgins Restaurant and Bar), Stephanie Kimmel (Marché Restaurant), Vitaly Paley (Paley’s Place), Caprial and John Pence (Caprial’s Bistro), and Cathy Whims (Nostrana). Tickets are $50.
portlandpublicmarket.org

Wild Coho Salmon Dinners Continue at the Oceanaire Seafood Room

They say the proof is in the eating, and in late July I experienced a media dinner at The Oceanaire Seafood Room that forever changed my mind about wild coho salmon. Long considered the poor stepchild when compared to its better-known cousins king (Chinook) and sockeye, coho was the star of the show as Executive Chef Eric Donnelly dressed the fish up in nine different iterations (!). Among the best were the simple preparations of the smaller, less fatty fish, in dishes such as Columbia River Coho Crudo with Yuzu Vinaigrette and Shaved Pacific Farms Wasabi (think ruby red salmon sashimi with perky punches of fresh wasabi and ginger). This dish paired perfectly with San Juan Island Vineyards 2004 Gewürztraminer. Grilled and Chilled Columbia River Coho with Heirloom Tomato Salad and Fresh Basil Vinaigrette made a good pairing with Carabella Vineyard 2006 Pinot Gris from the Chehalem Valley, while Harissa-Glazed Columbia River Coho Salmon with Cauliflower Couscous and Cured Lemon Butter formed a nice foil with Brandborg Vineyard & Winery 2005 “Ferris Wheel” Estate Pinot Noir from southern Oregon’s Umpqua Valley. The special coho menu items continue at Oceanaire through September 16, so don’t swim upstream; hoof it to Oceanaire. theoceanaire.com

Columbia River Coho Crudo with Yuzu Vinaigrette and Shaved Pacific Farms Wasabi was the star of the show at the Oceanaire Seafood Room’s wild coho salmon media dinner.

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Resto Reviews

Prowlin’ Portland

In early August, my participation in the first annual Careers in Wine Symposium in Portland prompted me to tack on a few extra days to do some research (a.k.a. wine and dine) in the Rose City and along the Oregon coast.

On our first evening, Spencer and I met Martha Holmberg (food editor at The Oregonian), her hubby, and charming 11-year-old daughter for wine and apps at Park Kitchen in Portland’s posh Pearl District. We especially enjoyed Chef Scott Dolich’s Salt Cod Fritters with Malt Vinegar (two orders of these were quickly consumed!) and his Duck Confit Crepes with Corn Smut and Crayfish Butter (definitely tastes better than it sounds!) from the “Small Hot Plates” portion of the menu and the Poached Albacore Tuna with Green Beans and Sea Beans from the “Large Plates” section. Egged on by Chef Scott, Martha was even brave enough to try a small plate of the Hand-Rolled Pici, Tomatoes, Shell Beans, and Tripe. Pastry Chef Heidi Weiser dazzled with a decadent Devil’s Food Cake with Dulce de Leche (two slices, please!). The place was packed on a sunny-cool summer evening and personified Portland’s dining scene with its serious, fresh-from-the-source food, yet laidback ambience. parkkitchen.com

Brunch at the venerable Heathman Restaurant is always a “must-do” whenever we visit Portland. I’ve always loved the way the 100-seat restaurant is situated, with big picture windows embracing the streetscape, a busy bar at one end, and the restaurant and demonstration kitchen forming the bulk of the narrow space that is painted a sunny yellow to counteract often-overcast Oregon skies. On this visit I enjoyed Chef Philippe Boulot’s Petrale Sole Parmesan, a generous fillet of sole breaded in the doré style with the addition of Parmesan cheese and draped over a salad comprised of the summer’s best garden tomatoes, green beans, and fresh basil. Spencer opted for a hearty rendition of Hangar Steak & Eggs served with Hollandaise, broccolini, and roasted red potatoes. You’ll find Chef Philippe’s recipe for the classic Oysters Gratinée in my upcoming book, Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining. heathmanhotel.com

Our final evening in Portland, after the symposium was over and I could finally relax, we enjoyed outside dining at Meriwether’s Restaurant, located in an atmospheric vintage house a short cab ride outside of downtown. West Coast Oysters with Champagne & Pink Peppercorn Mignonette cured my protein cravings, while Spencer enjoyed his Wild Gulf Shrimp with an impressive pool of stone-ground grits studded with housemade tasso ham. Half an order of Goat Cheese Ravioli with Sungold Tomatoes, Garlic, & Basil for me; a thick Grilled Carlton Farms Pork Chop with Roasted Peaches for Spencer; and views of the gazebo and garden left us both feeling satiated and satisfied. meriwethersnw.com

Other restos that came highly recommended by Portland’s professional foodies, but that we simply didn’t have time to try during our all-too-brief August visit, included Clyde Commons, Toro Bravo, Ten 01, Terroir Restaurant & Wine Bar, and Castagna Café.

On a sunny-cool summer evening, nothing beats dining al fresco at Park Kitchen, overlooking the North Park Blocks in downtown Portland’s posh Pearl District.

Cruisin’ Cannon Beach

Cannon Beach is the perfect “easy” getaway for Seattleites and Portlanders alike, and whenever we are in the area, we stay at the Stephanie Inn for its cozy rooms (teddy bears propped on the pillows play “You Are My Sunshine” when you squeeze their tummies), picture-postcard views of Haystack Rock, and outstanding four-course, prix-fixe dinners offered in the Stephanie Inn Dining Room during seatings at 6 p.m. or 8:30 p.m. each evening. This year we weren’t disappointed; in fact, we ate dinner at the Stephanie both nights at the beach. Among the highlights of Executive Chef Crystal Corbin’s August 5 and 6 menus were the Marinated Lamb Rack with Spinach, Mushrooms, and Dijon Sauce; Seared Halibut Fillet with Rice Beans, Fennel, and Brown Butter; Corn Velvet Soup with Fresh Crab & Chili Oil; and Chocolate Mousse Cake with Chambord Berry Sauce, Pistachios, & Tuile Cookie. Those who can’t make it to Cannon Beach can pick up a copy of the informative, easy-to-use, and beautifully photographed The Stephanie Inn Cookbook to recreate some of the Inn’s most requested recipes at home. stephanie-inn.com

We also enjoyed a visit to EVOO Cooking School in downtown Cannon Beach, owned and operated by former Fullers at the Sheraton Hotel & Towers Chef Bob Neroni and his wife Lenore. Bob and Lenore’s “cooking school” is much more than that; it also offers catering; a thoughtful selection of specialty foods, wines, and kitchen tools; and has earned the reputation as one of the best places to dine (when you sign up for cooking class) in the entire region. evoo.biz

A last-minute stop at The Cellar on 10th in downtown Astoria allowed us to stock up on difficult-to-find Oregon Pinots and avoid Washington-State sales tax before we headed back over the Columbia River Bridge. After trundling down the spiral staircase, we were impressed with the shop’s selection of Northwest wines, as well as its ambitious roster of upcoming events and winemaker dinners. Since returning, the store’s e-newsletter has kept us informed and up to date. thecellaron10th.com

The Marinated Lamb Rack with Spinach, Mushrooms, and Dijon Sauce stands at attention in a classic preparation at the Stephanie Inn Dining Room in Cannon Beach, Oregon.

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Short Takes

In the July edition of Northwest Notes, we featured a restaurant review of our very positive experiences at Boka Kitchen+Bar. Now we’re happy to report that, effective September 4, the restaurant has named Angie Roberts as executive chef. Roberts had served as chef at Flying Fish since 2005 and worked six years at the W Hotel in Seattle. During her time at the W, she served as sous chef at Earth & Ocean under Johnathan Sundstrom (Lark and Licorous) and Maria Hines (Tilth). She brings her affinity for local, seasonal, and sustainable ingredients and her history of working with a strong network of Pacific Northwest producers to BOKA’s “Urban American” menu. bokaseattle.com

You can view the July edition of Northwest Notes here.

On Saturday, September 22, from 10 a.m until 4:30 p.m., farms in South and East King County (Seattle) will open to the public during the ninth annual Harvest Celebration Farm Tour. The event, sponsored by Washington State University King County Extension, encourages attendees to meet local farmers, taste local food, walk the fields of local farms, pick their own vegetables, take a hay ride, churn butter, or even press apples for fresh cider. King.wsu.edu/foodandfarms/HarvestCelebration.html

Pork bellies, pancetta, speck, and many other forms of pork are appearing on the Pacific Northwest’s best menus. But not until a press release from Whole Foods Market landed among my incoming e-mails did I learn that there’s now a premium chocolate bar made with. . .you guessed it. . .bacon! According to the press release: “First in the market is Vosge Haut Chocolat’s new “Mo’s Bacon Bar” made with applewood-smoked bacon, alderwood-smoked salt, and deep milk chocolate (41% cacao). Smoky, chocolaty, and surprisingly good, this bacon bar is already winning rave reviews. Try it for only $5.99.” Oink. wholefoodsmarket.com

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Dish of the Month

Whole Idaho Trout with Lemon and Olive Oil, hot off the applewood-stoked grill, is one of the outstanding entrées offered on the Palace Kitchen’s dinner menu in Seattle. tomdouglas.com

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Super Sips

On August 11, Kurrent Restaurant and Ice Bar opened in Seattle’s Capitol Hill neighborhood. Located in the former Green Papaya Vietnamese Restaurant space in the Pike/Pine corridor, the contemporary space at Kurrent is divided between an intimate dining room and “The Ice Box,” a lounge that features a 50-foot-long ice strip in the middle of the bar where imbibers can place their beer or cocktail glasses to keep them cool between sips. Lime green accent walls, dark wood, and stark white furnishings add to the pseudo-Asian feel of the place. Chef Matt Baer offers “appeteasers” such as Tofu Fries with Garlic-Lime Aïoli and Chicken Pops with Ginger Candy Crust and “’Ahhh’ntrees” such as Rice-Noodle-Crusted Salmon and Kurrent Fried Crab or Lobster. The star of this show, however, may ultimately be Lead Bartender James MacWilliams’s creative cocktails, which he crafts from a wide array of housemade tonic waters, simple syrups, bitters, and infusions. Among his signature creations? Basil Martini with Seasonal Fruits, Tarragon Swizzle, and Blueberry Mojito. kurrentseattle.com

There’s a “dream flight” departing daily at the Twisted Cork Wine Bar in the Hyatt Regency Bellevue in Bellevue, Washington. For just $80 per “dream flight” of wine, you can sip aboard an exclusive group of premium Champagnes that include 1998 Dom Perignon Brut, 1996 Veuve Clicquot “La Grande Dame,” and 1995 Krug Vintage Brut. Twisted Cork co-owner and chef Dan Thiessen, who also oversees the magnificent 0/8 Seafood Grill, reports that he is selling about 10 flights a week, which just goes to show that some people can still afford to fly first class. Budget-minded travelers may prefer the “Disgorge at George” flight, which costs just $10 and includes Washington-State and Oregon sparklers such as 2005 Chateau Ste. Michelle Moscato, Mountain Dome Non-Vintage Brut, and 1998 Argyle Blanc de Blancs. 08seafoodgrill.com

The Viognier produced by Alexandria Nicole Cellars is one of my favorite bottlings of one of my favorite varietals, but, until now, you had to drive to Prosser, Washington, to take advantage of Alexandria Nicole’s tasting room/wine bar and tapas café. Late last month, the winery announced the opening of a second tasting room on the western side of the state. You’ll find the new Alexandria Nicole Tasting Room in the Woodinville Park North warehouse district, with wine tasting open to the public on Saturdays and Sundays from 12 p.m. to 5 p.m., or by appointment. alexandrianicolecellars.com

Every now and then, when I’m on certain medications or just want to let my liver rest for a few days, I find myself casting about for a suitable substitution for my beverage of choice, wine. In August, Whole Foods Market trumpeted a national roll-out campaign for First Blush, 100% all-natural, premium varietal grape juice that comes in four flavors: Cabernet, Merlot, Chardonnay, and Rosé. The juices contain no added sugars, preservatives, alcohol, or caffeine, and contain high levels of heart-healthy and anti-aging antioxidants, so drink up. firstblushjuice.com

And finally, our buddy Bob Betz, M.W., co-owner and winemaker of Betz Family Winery, was named “Winemaker of the Year” in the September issue of Sunset Magazine. This talented winemaker snatched the title from thousands of winemakers throughout the western states, including heavy hitters from California. Bob, a 35-year-veteran of the wine industry (with a 28-year stint at Ste. Michelle Wine Estates), makes the wine at his small family winery in Woodinville, Washington, while wife Cathy and daughter Carmen oversee marketing and sales. Look for a profile on Bob and Cathy, along with Bob’s recipe for Pizza Rustica with Tomato, Goat Cheese, and Black Olives, in my upcoming book, Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining. betzfamilywinery.com

Teri Citterman, my fellow columnist at Wine Press Northwest magazine, was recently awarded the prestigious “Editor’s Award” by the Symposium for Professional Wine Writers at Meadowood Napa Valley. Coincidentally, in 1998, I received a similar merit-based scholarship to attend the Symposium for Professional Food Writers at the Greenbrier. Here we toast the good news at TASTE Restaurant at the Seattle Art Museum.

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ON THE HORIZON

Interesting upcoming events in the Pacific Northwest and beyond include the following:

Tuesday, October 2, 2007:

24th Annual Feast at the Market, benefiting the Pike Market Medical Clinic
Pike Place Market
Seattle, WA
pikemed.org/feast

Saturday and Sunday, October 13 and 14, 2007:

6th Annual Dungeness Crab & Seafood Festival (“Crabfest”)
Port Angeles, WA
crabfestival.org

Sunday, October 14, 2007:

7th Annual Wild About Game Event
Resort at the Mountain
Welches, OR
nickyusa.com

Monday, October 15, 2007:

Northwest Wine Academy 2nd Annual Wine Release Party
South Seattle Community College, Wine Building
Seattle, WA
nwwineacademy.com

Monday, October 29, 2007:

Official Publication Date for Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining
Bookstores across the country.
wiley.com, amazon.com, northwestwininganddining.com

Saturday, November 10, 2007:

Lombardi’s Garlic Festival 20th Anniversary Gala
Lombardi’s Ballard Restaurant
Seattle, WA
lombardsitalian.com

November 23-35, 2007:

Wine Country Thanksgiving
120 Willamette Valley Wineries
Willamette Valley, OR
willamettewines.com

Saturday, January 19, 2008:

The Oregon Museum of Science and Industry “Science in the Kitchen: An Evening with the Nation’s Top Culinary Alchemists”
The Oregon Museum of Science and Industry
Portland, OR
omsi.edu

Newsy Notes

Happy Birthday, Pike Place Market!

Festivities in honor of the Pike Place Market’s 100th anniversary were years in the planning, and have been taking place in earnest since Daffodil Day back in February. Now, THE BIG DAY—August 17— is almost here! And during Centennial Week (August 11 through August 17), you can count down to THE BIG DAY while enjoying twice-daily musical performances on the Centennial Days Stage (near Rachel the Pig) and daily chef demos, among other fun events.

A handful of my favorite happenings that honor the city’s most charismatic centenarian include:

Sunset Supper
Friday, August 10, 7:30 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.
Pike Place Market
Various Ticket Prices

The always-fabulous, always-sold-out Sunset Supper offers wining, dining, and dancing under the stars as Seattle’s top chefs, winemakers, brewers, and a cast of thousands (well, at least hundreds) converge on the cobblestones along Pike Place. Hosted by the Market Foundation, Sunset Supper benefits the Market’s four social-service agencies: the Pike Market Senior Center, Medical Clinic, Preschool & Child Care, and the Downtown Food Bank. pikeplacemarket.org

Braiden Rex-Johnson Booksigning and Author Chat
Saturday, August 11, 1 to 3 p.m.
Barnes & Noble, Pacific Place, Downtown Seattle
Free

Stop by for your very own autographed and personalized copies of the Pike Place Market Cookbook, Second Edition (Sasquatch Books, 2003) and the Pike Place Public Market Seafood Cookbook, Gift Edition (Ten Speed Press, 2005) as I sign books and answer questions about the Market and the Centennial at this popular downtown bookstore.

THE BIG DAY
Friday, August 17
Pike Place Market
Free

Celebrate the Pike Place Market’s 100th birthday at this day-long party that includes a 1907 re-enactment, salmon-toss championship, giant birthday cake, awards ceremony with local dignitaries in attendance, and an evening concert and fireworks over Elliott Bay.

“Our Market Century” Exhibit
Through August 24
University of Washington, Suzzallo Library
Free

This chronicle of the Market’s history was compiled from resources of the Special Collections Division of the University of Washington Libraries.

For a complete listing of all Centennial Days events, please go to pikeplacemarket.org.

Pacific Northwest Wining and Dining Update

The first review of my seventh book, Pacific Northwest Wining and Dining, was issued by one of the heavyweights in the publishing industry. Here’s what Publisher’s Weekly had to say in its July 16th edition:

Pacific Northwest Wining and Dining: The People, Places, Food, and Drink of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and British Columbia
Braiden Rex-Johnson. Wiley, $32.50 (263p) ISBN 978-0-471-74685-0

Rex-Johnson, a food and wine writer from Seattle, has created what she calls “a love letter” to the Pacific Northwest, riding the wave of place-based cookbooks. One may not be able to dine at the Herbfarm, in Woodinville, Wash., for instance, but Rex-Johnson allows home cooks to recreate the restaurant’s Sea Scallops with Spiced Carrot–Dill Sauce. Better still, she realizes that some of the simplest and most delicious fare is what winemakers serve to their friends and families. She calls it “vineyard cooking,” and she has persuaded many of its practitioners to offer up their favorites. Most charming are her stories of leisurely and convivial meals spent at the table with her subjects, such as the hearth-baked pizza she shares with Bob Betz of Betz Family Winery. The book is organized by region, and the dishes are eclectic—don’t expect to find things according to course—and each is offered with a wine pairing, usually a varietal. Unfortunately, the recipes are laid out a bit confusingly, with ingredients in a sidebar, and often split over two pages, but the book is comprehensive, and the recipes are appealing and not overly fussy (Oct.)

Don’t forget to lock in the very reasonable pre-publication price for Pacific Northwest Wining and Dining byordering your copy (or copies!) on amazon.com NOW.

Advance copies are available for just $21.45 on amazon.com.

Mexico City Tapas and Tacos Opens in Pacific Place

Mexico City Tapas and Tacos, the shiny-bright sibling of Mexico Cantina (located right next door) opened for business in mid-July on the top level of Pacific Place. Shoppers can enjoy cervezas, margaritas, and sangria (priced from $4 to $6) along with Tex-Mex Burritos, Fish and Vegetarian Tacos, and Mexican “tapas,” such as Empanada con Salmon or Stuffed Pimientos, priced from $5 to $7. eatatmexico.com

Chocoholics Central

Chocolate lovers about town could hardly wait to “open” Chocolate Box, just across the street from the Pike Place Market at First Avenue and Pine Street. The store’s bakery features enticing pastries and mini cupcakes, its gelato counter serves ice cream sandwiches with your choice of gelato, and the espresso bar features not only coffee drinks, but made-to-order hot chocolate. Choice chocolates from local purveyors include Theo Chocolates (made in Fremont from free-trade beans), Oh! Chocolate (a family-run operation that started on Mercer Island), Fran’s (whose namesake was named best U.S. chocolatier), and Fiori (based in Bellevue). It’s at sweet times like these we’re glad that dark chocolate has proven to be such a potent antioxidant. sschocolatebox.com

Resto Reviews

Queen City Grill Celebrates 20 Years

In the tough and fickle restaurant business, many new ventures don’t survive their second year. Which makes Belltown’s Queen City Grill’s 20th anniversary at ten times that long all the more impressive. On a recent visit, we took advantage of the new awning-covered patio along bustling First Avenue to enjoy an appetizer of crab cakes with a kicky remoulade sauce. The beet salad (a generous portion of yellow and red beets and arugula) featured lavish slices of the best triple-cream blue cheese I’ve ever tasted.

A boatload of shrimp, clams, mussels, halibut, salmon, and Yellow Finn potatoes swam in the buttery broth of the Bouillabaisse, redolent of tomatoes and saffron. A properly peppered pepper steak came with mashers and candied carrots. Bread pudding with a killer Bourbon sauce was our final indolent indulgence.

We were also impressed with the wine selections. It’s nice to know you can choose among good-quality $20 bottles or order a $1,650 bottle of Chateau Haut Brion if so inclined. We had a lovely bottle of 2003 Guigal Chateauneuf-du-Pape ($70) and left with a doggie bag filled with enough Bouillabaisse and beet salad for another day. queencitygrill.com

35th Street Bistro

Over the July Fourth weekend, we enjoyed a soup-to-nuts dinner in “the Center of the Universe” when we supped on the outside patio at the 35th Street Bistro in downtown Fremont. A light breeze blew delicate leaves (organic, we hoped!) from overhanging tree branches into our shared appetizer of Sautéed Escargots. Not the typical garlic-butter-basted beauties were these. Instead, the toothsome critters had been bathed in a Roquefort cream sauce studded with sun-dried tomatoes and knobs of spinach and tenderly baked within precise pieces of golden puff pastry. Yum!

Creativity in the kitchen continued with the Kohlrabi and Apple Salad, napped with creamy mustard dressing, and the Alaskan Halibut, served with a generous portion of warm mushroom salad, pea shoots, and baby braised radishes (!), all lightly sauced with sherry vinaigrette. Almond-Crusted Rainbow Trout held up nicely to its lemon butter sauce and a baseball-sized serving of mashers.

Meyer Lemon Napoleon ended the evening as we had started it—with delicious doses of puff pastry and heavy cream. Don’t miss a selection from the lengthy wine list, which ranges across the globe but includes savvy selections from the Northwest. We’ll be back for the Latitude 46 Gewürztraminer from the world-famous Celilo Vineyard in the Columbia Gorge or the Archery Summit Premier Cuvée Pinot Noir from the Willamette Valley. 35bistro.com

Short Takes

Chef Brian McCracken has hatched a novel idea: he brings multi-course tasting menus to you and a small group of friends in the venue of your choice—be it terrace, beach, or even in the middle of a pasture! Flyte brings a whole new meaning to the phrase, “a moveable feast.” flyteseattle.com

The advent of sunny, yet cool weather in Seattle brings fair-weather diners out in full force. Our recent fair-weather dining favorites include The Bookstore Bar (don’t miss the Cobb Salad), Cactus’s West Seattle location overlooking Alki Beach (try the rockin’ Blue Corn Calamari with Crispy Jalapeños, Smoked Fresno Chile Pepper Aïoli, and Lime Chimichurri along with a Casa [House] Margarita, served on the rocks), Serafina Osteria & Enoteca’s ever-charming back patio (gotta have the calamari or mussels appetizer and whatever Chef John’s fish of the day is, along with the Veal Meatballs!), Marjorie’s corn-studded crab/shrimp cakes, and Tulio’s Semolina-Encrusted Scallops with Crispy Capers, Toasted Marcona Almonds, and Vin Santo. The latter is listed as an appetizer, but makes the perfect light summer entrée when paired with an expertly crafted Caesar salad and a glass of dry Rosé.

People watching is almost as good as the plate watching at Serafina Osteria & Enoteca.

Late-breaking word has it that the Madison Park Café’s charming tree-lined patio will be the perfect venue for Thursday-evening concerts sponsored by the Madison Park Business Association. Beginning at 6:30, and offered at the park directly across the street from the popular bistro, the concerts will feature headliners such as Suzie Bradford and the Side Project (pop/folk) and the SuperSones (traditional Cuban son music, the acoustic roots of contemporary salsa music). Madisonparkcafe.citysearch.com

I loved Crèmant from my very first visit over one year ago, when we sat on the patio under twinkling white lights and watched downtown Madrona come to life. Sadly, the patio is closed (landlord problems), but the restaurant continues strong with my favorite rendition of Bouillabaisse about town, brimming with seafood and paired with a side of properly prepared French rouille (hot chile/garlic paste). And neither Spencer, nor the grandmotherly gray-haired woman sitting next to him, had any trouble polishing off the lamb shank that arched from one side of the plate to the other. cremantseattle.com

David and Lily Kong made a bold decision when they were uprooted from their long-time Queen Anne location and moved to their stunning new restaurant—Perché No Pasta & Vino—near Green Lake. Built from the ground up to Chef David’s specifications (and wide-open wallet), the custom windows and banisters, open kitchen, majestic bar, outdoor patio, and rooftop deck are impressive; even more impressive are the happy crowds that pack the place most evenings. The Kong family celebrates their new location’s first birthday on August 1 with live opera music from 7:30 to 10:00 p.m. and complimentary gifts for guests. perchenopastaandvino.com

Chef David Kong, and son Christopher, in front of Perché No’s automatic pasta-making machine.

Super Sips

Sleek neighborhood wine bars are popping up in the Northwest almost as often as Starbucks outlets and wild mushrooms, but one that shows real promise is The Local Vine, located in Seattle’s Belltown neighborhood at Second Avenue and (appropriately enough) Vine Street. The brainchild of Harvard Business School grads Sarah Munson and Allison Nelson, the pair made a brilliant move by enlisting Jason Wilson, celebrity chef/owner of the ever-popular Crush, to design the small-plates menu. Next, the dynamic duo purchased Washington State’s first-ever high-tech Enomatic Wine-Preservation System, which allows the proper preservation of nearly 100 wines by the glass. The coup de grâce is the well-thought-out wine menu, divided into helpful categories such as “Centered—Crisp, balanced, racy acidity” or “Bombshell—Oak, tannins, body, acidity, fruit.” Look for additional Local Vines to sprout up in your neighborhood, just as soon as the original Vine takes root. thelocalvine.com

I’ll be speaking on a panel entitled, “Writing/Media/Education,” at the Careers in Wine Symposium in Portland on Saturday, August 4, from 4:00 to 5:00 p.m., then attending the wine-and-cheese reception that follows. Hosted by The Wine and Spirit Archive, the all-day symposium will be held at the fun and funky Urban Wine Works (407 NW 16th Avenue, at Flanders), and is a veritable steal at just $20 per person, with pre-registration required. thearchiveproject.net.

The Auction of Washington Wines celebrates its 20th anniversary this month with a splashy “Roaring 20th Anniversary” party at Chateau Ste. Michelle Winery in Woodinville. On Thursday, August 16, you can Picnic with the Winemakers and partake of the Barrel Auction. Friday brings a series of winemaker dinners at local wineries and private homes. The Gala Auction Peacock Ball struts its stuff on Saturday, August 18. The festivities will feature more than 175 wineries, celebrity chefs, entertainment, and incredible auction lots. Proceeds benefit Children’s Hospital & Regional Medical Center and the Washington Wine Education Foundation. auctionofwashingtonwines.org

For just $500 a glass, you can enjoy the return of The Josephine, a signature cocktail offered at the Portland location of El Gaucho. The cocktail, which is served in a snifter, pairs extremely rare L’Esprit de Courvoisier Cognac with a shot of Grand Marnier 150. For the uninitiated connoisseur, L’Esprit retails for more than $6,000 per bottle and includes rare vintage Cognacs from the time of Napoleon I (1802), the Civil War, and the French Industrial Revolution. A press release issued by the restaurant states: “Ordering [this prestigious drink] provides the perfect way to indulge in high-class luxury, impress a dinner companion, or simply treat oneself very well.” Indeed. elgaucho.com

Newsy Notes

Pigs on Parade

As part of the Pike Place Market’s Centennial Celebration, 100 fiberglass pigs in the likeness of Rachel, the Market’s beloved piggybank mascot, filled the streets of downtown Seattle as they paraded from Westlake Center to the Market on Saturday, June 2. Festooned with beads, tiles, gold paint, and even pennies, these porkers with a purpose spent the weekend at the Centennial Street Festival, then moved to their summer homes in locations all over downtown Seattle. On October 12 the creative masterpieces will congregate at the Westin Hotel, where they’ll be auctioned off to benefit the Market Foundation and all its good charity work. Among the most whimsical pigs? Pigasso; Dolly, the Public Relations Pig (donated by Seattle p.r. whiz Tamara Wilson of Wilson Public Relations fame); Pigasus; Pirate Pig; and my fave—Carmen Miranda Pig. pigsonparade.org

Pacific Northwest Wining and Dining Update

On June 13, I turned in the final corrections for my seventh book: Pacific Northwest Wining and Dining, which will be published in early October by John Wiley & Sons. This has truly been one of the most intense and rewarding times of my life. Research for the book took one year, writing a second year, and it’s been in production for one year with several rounds of copyediting; first, second, and final pages to review; and book jacket design, so I am more than ready to hold the first copy in my hands this fall. I’ve already planned two culinary demonstrations/booksignings at the Epcot Food and Wine Festival (October 26 and 27), and you’ll find articles on the book in magazines such as Plate, Seattle, and Wine Press Northwest. Advance copies are available for just $21.45 on amazon.com.

Tap House Grill Opens in Downtown Seattle

On Saturday evening, June 16, Seattle’s young and restless (along with some older press members such as yours truly) made the scene at the Tap House Grill VIP party. Located in the long-vacant Planet Hollywood location on Sixth Avenue, life-size action figures of Arnold Schwarzenegger and Bruce Willis, walls full of autographed Hollywood memorabilia, and food along the lines of Cap’n Crunch Chicken Tenders have given way to a contemporary, elegant space with 160 (!) beers on tap. The dramatic subterranean interior features gilded panels overhanging the curving bar, blood-red padded alcoves, and concrete floors that make for an energetic, if loud, zietgeist. Private rooms and elevated seating areas break the cavernous 13,000-square-foot space into more intimate areas for têtes-à-tête or private parties.

The buffet supper we sampled included finger food such as an assortment of sushi, chicken drummettes, mini-hamburgers, and lamb chops, and was generous, if underwhelming. Management plans an official media dinner once the kitchen and servers have a change to settle in, so I’ll report back once I’ve had a chance to experience the menu in greater depth.

The Tap House Grill opened to the public on Monday, June 18. The Bellevue Galleria houses the original location, with expansion plans to Portland and California if the Seattle store proves successful. taphousegrill.com

Portland Announces the Northwest’s First “Selmelier!”

I’ve heard of wine, tea, and even maple-syrup sommeliers. But a notice from the Portland Culinary Alliance alerted me that our innovative neighbor to the south now has its very own salt sommelier, or “selmelier.” Mark Bitterman and his wife, Jennifer Turner, first fell in love with finishing salts after several years spent in France. Now, at The Meadow, their reportedly “charming little shop on Mississippi, in the heart of one of Portland’s most happening neighborhoods,” Mark and Jennifer sell 60 gourmet salts and 10 peppers, along with dark chocolate, wine, and flowers. The salts come from nearly every continent and range in color from white to black, including smoked salt. Mark keeps a blog (saltnews.com) in which he states, “Gourmet finishing salts are the crystals through which our world can be seen in all its variegated and changing beauty.” saltnews.com

Canada’s First-Ever Sake Producer

Not to be outdone, Vancouver, British Columbia, now plays host to Canada’s very first sake winery, Artisan SakeMaker Studio. Located on Granville Island, in the heart of Vancouver’s bustling False Creek, the new sake maker offers Junmai Nama (think crisp pear, melon, and citrus notes), Junmai Nama Genshu (with fragrant tropical flavors), and Junmai Nama Nigori (a sweet, cloudy sake, the ideal complement to spicy food). The sakes are fermented in small batches from top-of-the-line Japanese sakamai (rice), then hand-pressed and –bottled. artisansakemaker.com

“The Chef in the Hat,” Thierry Rautureau of Rover’s fame and Kurt Beecher Dammeier, owner/founder of Beecher’s Handmade Cheese, competed against each other and several members of the Granite City Curling Club during the “Rolling of the Truckles” at the third annual Seattle Cheese Festival, held in mid-May at the Pike Place Market. Dammeier claimed the prize in the brief, intense contest which involved rolling 18-pound, barrel-shaped cheeses with a special cheese spatula down the brick cobbles along Pike Place.

Resto Reviews

Bewitching BOKA Kitchen + Bar

Despite recently losing its talented opening chef, Seis Kamimura, BOKA (Bold Original Kitchen Artistry) in the sleek Hotel 1000 (at First and Madison) remains on firm ground as one of the city’s most creative dining experiences. On a recent Saturday-night visit, we were thrilled to reconnect with Sommelier/General Manager Marc Papineau. Many of you know Marc from his stint at Earth & Ocean in the W Hotel; he’s been at BOKA for just about a year.

In addition to a stellar “regular” wine list that includes an impressive line-up of Northwest choices, he has a journal-like “If I were here drinking with you tonight” list of personal faves called “Marc’s List.” We were tempted by a Pinot Noir from Washington’s Syncline Wine Cellars sourced from the world-famous Celilo Vineyard and another from Oregon’s Beaux Freres, but opted for a more full-bodied, dark-raspberry-rich Russian River Valley Pinot from DoMUL Winery.

On the food side, the Dungeness Crab Cupcakes reign supreme among the city’s small bites (called “urban bites” and served in pairs at BOKA); Spring Garden Vegetable Soup arrived in a stark white bowl that looked like a miniature modern bathtub; Spiced Leg of Lamb (pictured below) was perfectly cooked to medium-rare, with creamy polenta and rich tomato sauce as accents; a cube of wild king salmon with crispy-cooked skin carefully perched atop seasonal veggies and a bed of flavorful couscous.

Sitting at the bar at BOKA was a sublime experience as the expert bartendress muddled mojitos and slipped us a sip of organic vodka when we expressed an interest. Designed by Seattle’s Mesher Shing, the interior is at once sleek, warm, and contemporary with glass art “trees” by Seattleite J.P. Canlis and Spanish gesture paintings by Gonzalo Martin-Calero.

Digitized images of the world’s great artwork play on plasma screens, while the glow behind the bar changes from lilac to turquoise to tangerine in slow succession, soothing the senses and calming the soul. bokaseattle.com

Tempting TASTE Restaurant

We could hardly wait for the Seattle Art Museum (SAM) to reopen, not so much for the expanded galleries and new collections as for the first tempting tastes of TASTE Restaurant. The brainchild of good buddy and fellow Seattle Dame Danielle Custer, TASTE reflects Danielle’s and Executive Chef Christopher Conville’s passion for sustainably sourced Northwest foods, such as Lummi Island salmon, St. Jude’s line-caught albacore tuna, and Full Circle Farms organic greens. These fresh foods partner perfectly with TASTE’s reasonably priced and thoughtfully devised wine list, which is composed entirely of Northwest options (!).

Our first meal there, during the soft opening, was a Saturday lunch that we expected would take 45 minutes and be the typical, institutional, museum-café experience. WRONG! Artfully arranged on a long white plate, my Wild Salmon Niçoise Salad was a colorful palette of baby beets, fingerling potatoes, hard-boiled egg, spring beans, medium-rare salmon, and crispy shallots. Croque Madame was upscale comfort food, the broiled ham and cheese playfully topped with a fried farm egg and accompanied by local greens. Chocolate lovers shouldn’t miss one of the best desserts I’ve ever tasted—Chocolate Coffee Parfait with Hazelnut Biscotti. Deep chocolate mousse was doused in a shot of bitter Italian coffee while mascarpone cheese provided a creamy component, the dark-chocolate hazelnut “biscotti” (more like a chocolate bark) added a musky crunch, and a sprinkle of salt perked the palate. Deconstructed Berry Buckle with Lemon Cream and Thyme Meringue was another intriguing mix of sweet and savory. Two hours after our arrival, as we sipped Torrefazione Italian coffee and fought over the last remnants of dessert, we knew that TASTE more than lived up to its name!

TASTE’s contemporary, modern ambience rivals world-class museum cafes and restaurants around the world. Upon entering the 90-seat restaurant, guests are immediately welcomed with a whimsical, all-white installation by local artist Jeffry Mitchell. At night, the white takes on a blue glow thanks to softly flickering glassybaby candle votives. Once the new Four Seasons Hotel is finished construction across the street (Spring 2008), the “West Edge” neighborhood that’s home to SAM and nearby Benaroya Concert Hall will draw a steady stream of tourists and locals alike, and First Avenue may finally live up to its nickname as “the Park Avenue of Seattle.” www.tastesam.com

Short Takes

Two recent meals at Place Pigalle prove that the kitchen and front-of-house are in the very capable hands of Seth and Lluvia Walker after at the departure of owner Bill Frank after 25 years. Oysters on the half shell were full and lush; the oyster stew remains one of the best renditions in town (brimming with the essence of oyster in the lush, creamy soup base), and a baby beet salad came accompanied by a generous knob of hazelnut-crusted goat cheese. Long-standing signature dishes such as Calamari Dijonnaise, Steamed Mussels Pigalle, and Chocolate Pot de Crème soothe old-timers such as myself, but don’t miss chef Tom Schultz’s daily-changing specials, which often showcase a Korean/Asian kick that is especially intriguing. placepigalle-seattle.com

Recently opened at a rather dismal location on Stewart Street between Second and Third Avenues overlooking the Bon Marché parking garage is one of the most fun and fanciful French restaurants in all of Seattle: Entre Nous. If this place were on First Avenue (such as Le Pichet) it’d have a mighty following. Placed where it is, its survival seems precarious unless diners discover it and rally around the cause. The concept sounds strange: French tapas and fondue. But the friendly welcome with a basket of warm, freshly baked baguette and the small plates designed for sharing quickly dispel any doubts. French-born chef Stephane Ohayon and his family are much in evidence; on a drizzly Saturday afternoon, several generations were celebrating a family-member’s birthday at a nearby table! We enjoyed an endive, blue cheese, and walnut salad and mussels in a kicky red pepper/green pepper butter sauce. The Croque Monsieur was a decadent delight, but only for those who don’t mind a liberal douse of gravy-like béchamel sauce. Don’t miss reading the brochure that sits on each table (and is also posted on the Web site) entitled, “Decoding French Dining.” The “Decoder” explains the French people’s take on proper dining manners, such as keeping your hands out of your lap and ladies not pouring wine for themselves. entrenousseattle.com

Frankly, it’d been years since we last tried The Brooklyn, even though it’s within two blocks of our downtown condo. But with the recent reopening of the Seattle Art Museum, you can imagine the venerable Brooklyn seeing an infusion of new faces in addition to ours. We were surprised that they now offer a “small plates” menu with the likes of a delicious Dungeness Crab Tower (more of a bowlful of fresh bibb lettuce, copious amounts of sweet crab meat, and a sweet/tart lime vinaigrette that rivals Tom Douglas’s version at Etta’s) and a lovely spicy fried calamari with Asian coleslaw and nuoc cham dipping sauce. Specially paired flights of oysters with oyster wines seemed very popular and are a big attraction for both tourist and locals alike. thebrooklyn.com

Chef Eric Donnelly is really hitting his stride at The Oceanaire Seafood Room if a recent visit is any indication. Having grown up on the East Coast, I can rarely resist any version of soft-shell crabs, and Chef Eric’s did not disappoint. The soft-shelled beauties were fried in a light tempura batter, cut in half with claws splayed skyward, and accompanied by an amazing spicy sweet corn risotto, which could have been a meal in itself. Hebi, a Hawaiian spearfish that reminded me of a lighter version of bluefin tuna, was cut sashimi-style with the classic accompaniments of soy sauce, wasabi, and pickled ginger. Pristine perfection. The Grand Shellfish Platter never fails to astonish, with chilled oysters on the half shell, mussels, clams, huge shrimp, and cracked Dungeness crab claws. The thickest spears of Yakima asparagus with eggy Hollandaise form the final decadent indulgence. oceanaireseafoodroom.com

Located in a subterranean space with romantic alcoves divided by crimson curtains, 94 Stewart Restaurant is a heartfelt, family-run place where mom Celinda Norton serves as chef, son Nicholas is general manager and cheese expert, and father Michael Norton acts as “fix-it man” and owner. A quick, late-night dinner turned up two hearty mains along with an excellent bottle of Washington red. The Roast Pork Loin was sauced with a cider reduction and lardons (thick, crispy bacon bites) and sided with blue-cheese mashers. My Chicken San Marzano could easily have served two, for its double breast was fried in a light breading (panko, perhaps?), topped with Italian tomato sauce, and served over bulghur wheat salad. A trip to the restroom is a must here, for lining the corridor to the washrooms are hundreds (thousands?) of customer comment cards and maps with push pins that highlight 94 Stewart’s customers origins from around the world! 94stewart.com

Super Sips

With the advent of summer, my husband and I have been enjoying more than our fair share of dry, reasonably priced Northwest Rosés. They’re not only thirst-quenching and good partners with lighter summer foods, but they also bring back fond memories of patio lunches of Salade Niçoise (me) and Moules Frites (hubby) during our October visit to Provence. When sipping these rosy-hued wines, look for a pale- to medium-pink color; aromas and flavors of cherry and strawberry fruit, and occasional hints of dried herbs and dill. Texture is lively and fresh, and sometimes a bit mellow. Some of our recent favorites include:

•Barnard Griffin 2006 Rosé of Sangiovese (100% Sangiovese) has been turning heads in national wine competitions including the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, where it took home double gold and best of class after being judged among 3,800 wines. You’ll enjoy this wine for its cherry, cranberry, and raspberry notes backed by balanced, not-too-tart, acidity. Stocks are running low (1,041 cases produced) so stash some now for summer sipping. $11

•Syncline Wine Cellars 2006 Rosé is made from 68% Grenache, 25% Mourvedre, and 7% Cinsault and offers pleasing hints of watermelon in the nose and on the palate. Buy it soon and often, as only 460 cases were produced. $13

•Chinook Wines 2006 Rosé of Cabernet Franc (100% Cabernet Franc) has been called “the closest thing to a Rosé cult wine in this state” by Seattle wine writer Richard Kinssies. The 2006 vintage displays aromas and flavors of strawberry jam. $15-16

•Snoqualmie Vineyard Winery 2003 Cirque du Rosé is made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and features pleasing strawberry and spice aromas and flavors. $9

Washington Wine Country was a fun-filled weekend of “wine-touring” held on the grounds of Woodinville’s venerable Chateau Ste. Michelle. Here I am in front of the Puget Sound Appellation pavilion, which featured an impressive assortment of wineries, restaurants, and travel partners from the appellation. The four regional pavilions hosted representatives from Walla Walla, Yakima, Red Mountain, and the Columbia Valley for a total of 70 wineries, 50 restaurants, and 30 travel partners. In its second year of operation, Washington Wine Country truly fulfilled its mission of “connecting the state.”