Quinn’s Gallopin’ Good Gastropub!

August 8, 2008

Piled high and cooked crispy, Quinn\'s Fried Chicken doesn\'t fail to deliver.

On a recent sunny summer evening, the vibes (and parking) were right, and we finally made it over to Quinn’s on Capitol Hill, sister restaurant to one of our downtown faves, Restaurant Zoë. Chef and owner Scott Staples is clicking on all cylinders, from the newly expanded wine list (full bottles are now offered, in addition to a sizeable half-bottle list) to the pub’s zeitgeist (families, the black crowd, and old folks like us in the beautifully restored space) to the well-crafted, something-for-everyone offerings. 

Here’s one of the Large Plates, Buttermilk-Fried Chicken Breast with Rustic Potato Salad, Biscuit, and Foie Gravy. The airline cut of chicken was perfectly crisped and golden brown, the biscuit wasn’t buttermilk but more like an egg-washed scone, the foie-gras gravy speaks for itself, the rustic potato salad was about half composed of thick bacon bits, and the potato salad added a nice crunch. 

Small Plates included a truly inspired Seared Scallops with Butter-Poached Fingerlings, Baby Pea Shoots, Burnt-Caramel Sherry Caramel, and Popcorn (yes, ground popcorn!) dusting the pretty plate. You can see why the Wild Boar Sloppy Joe (with Crispy Sage Leaves, of course!) is a signature dish. . .pulled pork deluxe served on a brioche bun. Even something normally as simple as a Pear Salad grew special thanks to the addition of arugula, blanched green beans, and Stilton. Not to mention that the pears (cut crosswise) were hiding on the bottom of the plate under the greens and beans!

A bottle of McCrea 2006 Sirocco Blanc, an unusual but brilliant blend of Roussanne, Marsanne, and _____ paired perfectly with all the diverse dishes of the evening. 

New Urban Sips Sizzles

August 7, 2008

Teri Citterman, one of my fellow columnists at Wine Press Northwest, has a new blog called Urban Sips.

My friend and fellow wine columnist, the ever-sassy, ever-savvy Teri Citterman, recently launched a fabulously fun new blog with the same name as her Wine Press column, Urban Sips. Check in often for Teri’s unique observations on life and wine. She’s been nicknamed “Teri Bradshaw,” for her similarity to Sarah Jessica Parker’s character on “Sex and the City,” so you know you’re in for a good read every time. 

Union’s $50 Meal Deal

August 6, 2008

Plump baby calamari anchor the bowl amid baby green beans, hearts of palm, mizuna, and a lovely, light aïoli at Union.

After a rousing three hours of tasting through 31 Northwest (and one English) hard ciders for an upcoming article for Pacific Northwest, The Seattle Times’ Sunday magazine, Pike Place Pub owners Charles and Rose Ann Finkel, Spencer, and I popped across the street for dinner at Union.

Our appetites, primed by the dry, apple-y effervescence of the cider, called out for sustenance. And Union more than delivered, not to mention two memorable bottles of wine.

For a mere $50 per person, diners can choose two plates from among the Appetizers, Salads, Soups, and Pastas found on the left side of the menu; one dish from the Fish, Game, and Meat on the right-hand side of the menu; plus dessert.

Spencer and I adored our Baby Calamari with Haricots Verts, Hearts of Palm, Mizuna, and Aïoli (pictured above), while Rose Ann chose her favorite Carne Cruda (a carefully crafted mound of beef tartare) and Charles went for the Chilled Cucumber Soup with Smoked Mackerel, Goat Yogurt, and Radish. A lovely Tomato Terrine with Grilled Ricotta Salata (brilliant!), Fennel, and Taggiasca Olives was our server and friend, Kurt Krause’s, little bit of lagniappe that special evening. 

While I went for the healthy, and generous, portion of Mixed Baby Greens for my second course, other members of the group ooh-ed and aah-ed over the Fregola with Manila Clams, Chilies, and Parsley Pesto. I’ve had the dish before, and can only attest to its simple goodness. Kurt reported that, although already sold out the night we visited, the Potato Gnocchi with Lobster, Bacon, and Rosemary is quickly becoming a signature dish. 

Among mains, we were tempted by all the fish offerings, from Bluenose Bass to Fluke to Ocean Trout, but I decided on the Ahi Tuna with Tomatoes, Artichokes, Fennel, and Black Olives, which was perfectly seared and sauced. Rose Ann’s bass came with cauliflower, sweet pepper, and prawns in a bouillabaisse broth. The meat eaters (boys) in the group raved over Venison with Morel Mushrooms, Carrot Purée, and Blackberries (!) and Beef Strip Loin simply served with new potatoes, spinach, olives, and red-wine sauce. 

Dessert didn’t disappoint. While one could opt for his or her choice among five different cheese plates, the four of us went straight for the sweets. They included a nummy-looking Lemon Cake with Aged Balsamic, Almond Cake with Rhubarb Compote, and Frozen Chocolate Paté with Cherry Soup and Pistachio Brittle, my choice and worth every decadent calorie. 

A pricey, but oh-so-worth-it bottle of French Sauvignon Blanc, and a Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, paired perfectly with all the outstanding dishes. It’s easy to see why Union has been hailed as, “One of the Top 103 Restaurants in the U.S.,” by Bon Appetít. 

Condo Crisis Finally Over!

August 5, 2008

Thanks to so many of you who were concerned and sympathetic during our recent condo flood. VERY happy to report that as of last Friday, the workers finished their “reclamation” and our lives returned to some semblance of pre-flood normalcy. We moved the paint cans down into our storage area, put the artwork back up, and moved Spencer’s musical instruments back into our condo unit, so started the week in a much better frame of mind. Our elderly neighbor’s insurance company even called first thing Monday morning to see how things were going, so we took that as another good sign that maybe this will all be behind us sooner rather than later!

Beautiful Burrata

August 5, 2008

A fine summer salad of burrata, arugula, and cherry tomatoes at Barolo.

When summertime hits, I can’t seem to get my fill of Burrata, the sinfully rich Italian mozzarella cheese with ricotta cheese buried in the center. Here is Barolo’s rendition–Burrata Salad with Arugula and Cherry Tomatoes. Chandon’s Brut Rosé made the perfect counterpart. 

Typhoon! Triumphs

August 4, 2008

Shrimp Salad Rolls and Chicken Salad with Asparagus are menu standouts at Typhoon!

During our recent condo flood, when it was too hot and noisy to cook at home, we found ourselves turning to Typhoon!, just half a block down the hill, for two memorable take-out dinners. Fresh Salad Rolls were just so clean and refreshing with a spicy, peanut-packed Peanut Sauce and a perfectly cooked shrimp hiding within the rice-paper wrapper. The Summer Salad (shredded white chicken, blanched asparagus, and baby greens) was lightly dressed and sang of the season. Salmon Cakes provided a nice punch of protein, although I’ve had better versions about town. On another evening, Summer Curry with Shrimp and Spinach, served over brown rice, filled our longing for something warm and comforting. 

The recent remodel the bar area has undergone works well, with new banquettes and draperies in the bar that are sophisticated, yet inviting. We’ll check out the restaurant and report back in a future post. 

Virginia Inn Redux

August 3, 2008

Crab cakes, steamed mussels, and baby greens al fresco at the venerable Virginia Inn.

The venerable Virginia Inn in the PIke Place Market recently re-emerged after a far-too-lengthy remodel. It looks better than ever. . .the space expanded to twice the original size with the beautiful tiled floor and brick walls intact, brilliant artwork lining the walls, and an air of familiarity and antiquity combined with contemporary charm. 

We enjoyed our lunch al fresco as the floor show that is First Avenue flew by. Here are the light and luscious crab cakes, which contained lots of Sherry-flavored, creamy crab dusted with panko (Japanese) bread crumbs and either baked or very lightly sautéed. Also noteworthy were the Mediterranean mussels in a white-wine broth that wasn’t overblown with butter. A glass of Rosé for me and Sauvignon Blanc for Spencer, and we were very happy campers. 

Cheese Whiz

August 2, 2008

It doesn\'t get any cuter than this photo!

My August 17 story for “Pacific Northwest,” The Seattle Times’ Sunday magazine, will feature Julie Steil, owner of River Valley Cheese in Fall City, Washington. Here are some of the adorable baby goats she milks twice a day.

Sheer panic amid the yaks!

And here is your intrepid reporter getting up close (and far too personal, in my opinion) with some other members of Julie’s herd. The goats nibbled my denim jacket and pants legs, while the yak butted me in the buttocks, and the water buffalo looks like he’s about to charge!

Raspberry Shortcake with Rose Geranium Cream

August 1, 2008

Beautiful summer fruits for sale at the Granville Island Farmers\' Market

Raspberry Shortcake with Rose Geranium Cream

Varietal: Dessert Wine (Late-Harvest Riesling)                                                           

Serves 8

For 17 years, Chef Jerry Traunfeld cooked at the venerable Herbfarm restaurant, famous the world over for its nine-course, prix-fixe dinners and wine pairings centered around regional, seasonal ingredients and a bounty of fresh herbs from the restaurant’s massive kitchen garden. In late 2007, he left to open his own restaurant, Poppy, named after his mother. Both restaurants emphasize the use of fresh herbs in the creative dishes, such as this super summer shortcake napped with rose-scented cream. Pair the dessert with a sweet, viscous, aromatic wine, such as a Late-Harvest Riesling, and toast to the bounty of summer! Leading Northwest producers include Kiona, Hogue, and Washington Hills, all from Washington State.

2 cups all-purpose flour

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into four pieces

1 cup sour cream

1/2 cup whole milk

Rose Geranium Cream (Recipe follows)

4 cups (2 pints) fresh raspberries

1. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and reserve.

2. Combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda, the 1/4 cup sugar, and salt in a medium mixing bowl. Cut in the butter with a pastry blender or two crisscrossed knives until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Stir in the sour cream and milk.

3. Drop the dough in eight mounds onto the prepared baking sheet. Sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar. Bake for 15 minutes, or until lightly browned. Transfer the biscuits to a wire rack to cool slightly before splitting.

4. To serve, cut the biscuits in half horizontally. Put the bottom halves on dessert plates and spoon large dollops of Rose Geranium Cream over each. Cover with berries, letting them spill out the sides, and replace the biscuit tops. Serve immediately.

Rose Geranium Cream

Makes about 1 1/2 cups

1 1/2 cups heavy whipping cream

12 large fresh rose geranium leaves

1. Bring the cream to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the rose geranium leaves, cover, remove from the heat, and allow to sit at room temperature for 30 minutes. Strain into a small mixing bowl, pressing the solids with a wooden spoon to force out as much cream as possible. Discard the rose geranium, cover the cream, and refrigerate until completely chilled.

2. Just before serving, whip the chilled cream to medium-soft peaks.

Cook’s Hint: To measure flour in this recipe, Jerry recommends spooning the flour into the measuring cup, then leveling it off with a straight edge (such as a kitchen knife). To be even more precise, measure your flour using a kitchen scale; it should weigh 9 ounces.

Recipe reprinted from the Pike Place Market Cookbook, Second Edition (Sasquatch Books, $18.95) by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

Something Cool Blowing at Desert Wind

August 1, 2008

The beautiful La Mesa restaurant at Desert Wind Winery.

On our drive back from Vintage Walla Walla (see blog post of July 12 for further details) we made a point to stop in Prosser to check out Desert Wind Winery, the Yakima Valley’s (relatively) new drawing-card winery. It was no easy task because there isn’t a dedicated off ramp; we had to double back twice before reaching it. Once there, however, we were “wowed” by the Southwest-inspired architecture; the grandeur (and sheer size) of the tasting room; and the soaring ceilings, floor-to-ceiling barrels, and open kitchen design of the restaurant, La Mesa at Desert Wind. We’ll be back in Yakima end of September for a booksigning at Chinook Wines and Chukar Cherry Company, and will base our trip at Desert Wind, staying at one of the four gorgeous luxury suites, so will give you an updated report then.

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