Triple Blue Summer Salad
Varietal: Grenache

Serves 6

Clarissa Metzler Cross, co-owner with husband Doug of Canter-Berry Farms, suggests trying this easy-to-make layered salad during the height of local tomato season for the best flavors and textures. The name comes about because it contains blueberry vinegar, fresh blueberries, and blue cheese, and the recipe appears in the Pike Place Market Cookbook, Second Edition. Although skeptics often say it’s difficult to pair salad and wine, I beg to differ. While it can be a bit more challenging to pair than other foods, salads (at least in most modern kitchens) are not just lettuce leaves tossed with vinegar and oil. More often, they also include “bridge ingredients,” an idea originated and popularized by revered California food and wine writer John Ash. Bridge ingredients are protein- and/or fat-rich foods that marry well with wine, such as cheese, nuts, or beans. In the salad that follows, the blue cheese (a wine-friendly food) and blueberries (a common flavor component in red wines) act as the “bridge ingredients” that cross above the tomatoes and romaine to allow a sensible pairing with the wine. I’d suggest Grenache, a Rhone varietal that is often blended with Syrah. The light red grape produces a fruity wine without a lot of tannins. Its rich berry flavors will amplify the blueberry notes in the vinegar and fruit. Although not widely grown in the Northwest, Grenache is one of the unusual varietals produced at Abacela Winery in Oregon’s Rogue Valley.

3 large tomatoes, cored and sliced 1/4-inch thick

1/2 cup crumbled good-quality blue, Gorgonzola, or Roquefort cheese

1/2 cup Canter-Berry Farms blueberry vinegar or other mild fruit-flavored fruit vinegar

6 large romaine lettuce leaves, rinsed and patted dry

1/2 cup fresh blueberries, for garnish

Fresh mint leaves, for garnish

Freshly ground black pepper, optional

Arrange the tomato slices in a single layer in the bottom of a stainless steel or glass mixing bowl or baking dish, then sprinkle with a couple of tablespoons of the cheese and a couple of tablespoons of the vinegar. Continue layering the tomatoes, cheese, and vinegar until you run out, ending with the vinegar. Let the salad rest at room temperature for 15 to 30 minutes. If not serving within that time, cover and refrigerate.

Fifteen to 30 minutes before you want to serve, arrange the lettuce leaves on salad plates and divide the tomatoes and cheese among the plates, drizzling with any remaining vinegar. Garnish with blueberries and mint leaves and sprinkle with black pepper, if desired.

Scandinavian Salmon
Varietal: Mélon

Serves 6 to 8

Linda and Ron Kaplan lived many an oenophile’s dream when they gave up successful careers in Iowa as a newspaperwoman and lawyer to follow the grapes to Oregon in 1994 after purchasing Panther Creek Cellars.

Scandinavian Salmon will make a lovely addition to my upcoming book, Northwest Wining and Dining (John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 2007), although I was skeptical when Linda suggested it could be paired with Pinot Noir. But the earthiness of the dill and in the salmon (be sure to use wild fish, not farm-raised!) works well with similar notes in the wine. Pinot Gris and sparkling wine are other suggested pairings, although Mélon is a more intriguing possibility. “Mélon is a close relative of Pinot Blanc, and is also the same grape as France’s Muscadet. In the nose of this varietal you’ll often find pear, citrus, and peaches. On the palate, it’s richly textured, with flavors of pear, peach, and apricot, and just a touch of sea salt,” according to the Panther Creek Web site.

1 English cucumber rinsed, scrubbed, and patted dry

3 pounds wild salmon fillet, rinsed, drained, and patted dry

2 lemons, very thinly sliced

1 large bunch of dill, rinsed, drained, and patted dry

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. With a vegetable peeler, peel the cucumber in long strokes and save the skins. Cut the cucumber into thin rounds and reserve.

Line a large baking sheet with heavy-duty aluminum foil, placing one sheet of foil lengthwise across the baking sheet, allowing enough excess foil on both sides to be folded across the fish. Run another sheet of foil from top to bottom, again allowing enough foil to fold over the fish. Place the salmon skin side down in the center of the foil. Cover the fish with the cucumber skins, placing the white portion of the skins toward the fish.

Cover the cucumber skins with half of the lemon slices and top with half of the dill. Bring the ends of the foil up around the top and bottom of the fish, fold neatly to seal the fish, then repeat with the other ends of foil until the fish, cucumber, lemon, and dill are completely enclosed.
Place the baking sheet on the center oven rack, and cook 50 to 55 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish and desired doneness. If you are not sure if the fish is done, open the foil carefully to allow the steam to escape and cut into the center of the salmon with the tip of a small kitchen knife. When it is done, the salmon will also begin to leach protein, which appears as milky white, creamy substance on the surface of the fish.

Once the fish is cooked to your liking, open the foil carefully to allow the steam to escape. Scrape off and discard the cucumber skins, lemon, and dill. Using a long, thin spatula, position the edge of the spatula against the fat layer between the salmon flesh and skin. Move the spatula forward through the fat layer so that the flesh comes away from the skin. Transfer the salmon to a large serving plate and discard the skin and foil.

Just before serving, season the salmon to taste with salt and pepper. Garnish with the reserved cucumber slices and the remaining lemon slices and dill, and serve family style.

Roast Leg of Lamb Foccacia Sandwiches
Varietal: Cabernet Franc

Serves 10 to 12

Scott Staples, chef/owner of perennially popular Restaurant Zoë in Seattle’s Belltown neighborhood, shared this recipe for roast lamb, which will appear in my upcoming book, Northwest Wining and Dining (John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 2007). The lamb can be served for dinner or, as he suggests, as part of a picnic when sliced and stacked on foccacia bread along with roasted red peppers and an herbed cheese spread. As far as wine pairing goes, the chef suggests Cabernet Franc or Syrah if serving as an entrée, or a Dry Rosé if packing a picnic. Cabernet Franc is an intriguing grape, usually used for blending with Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, although also produced as a single varietal in Washington state. It is characterized by a deep purple color and fruity/brambleberry aromas and flavors.

1 6- to 8-pound whole leg of lamb, shank intact, hip bone removed, trimmed of most of the fat and silver skin, and tied

2 tablespoons kosher salt

Dijon Herb Salt Crust (Recipe follows)

Good-quality homemade or store-bought foccacia bread

1 package (5.2 ounce) Boursin Garlic and Fine Herbes Cheese

1 cup homemade or store-bought roasted red peppers

Rub the lamb with the salt and allow it to sit at room temperature for one hour.

Put the lamb in a large roasting pan and coat evenly with the Dijon crust. Cover the lamb and refrigerate overnight or up to 24 hours.

Two hours before you want to cook the lamb, remove it from the refrigerator and allow it to stand at room temperature. Ten to 15 minutes before you want to cook the lamb, preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

Place the lamb in the center of the oven and cook for 1 hour. Remove from the oven and check the internal temperature of the meat by testing with an instant-read thermometer. To test, insert the thermometer in two or three places at the top of the leg where it is thickest (but not touching the bone), then average the readings. Chef Staples suggests cooking the meat to an internal temperature of 130 degrees for rare meat, which can take from 1 1/4 to 1 3/4 hours, depending on the size of the leg and the oven. When cooking is complete, take the leg out of the oven, turn it over, and let it rest at room temperature, loosely tented with aluminum foil, for approximately 45 minutes.

Most of the crust will drip off during cooking, but scrape off any remaining crust before carving. To carve, place the leg on a cutting board or large platter, secure with a carving fork and carve thin slices from the side of the leg, slicing downward. Now turn the lamb leg on its side and slice downward along the bone. Place your knife along the bone and slice crosswise to remove the meat.

If serving as an entrée, divide the lamb among dinner plates. If serving as sandwiches, on a clean, smooth work surface, lay out a piece of plastic wrap large enough to fold over the foccacia. Cut the foccacia in half horizontally, spread the top with about 2 ounces of the cheese (use the remaining portion in another recipe or take to your picnic) and layer the bottom with the sliced lamb and the roasted peppers. Put the foccacia pieces back together, press down lightly, and place in the middle of the plastic wrap. Cut into sandwich-size pieces, wrap the focccacia in the plastic wrap, and chill in an ice chest or cooler or refrigerate until ready to serve.

Dijon Herb Salt Crust

Makes about 3 cups

1/2 cup Dijon mustard

1/2 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

1/2 cup kosher salt

1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh thyme

1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh rosemary

3 large eggs

1/2 cup homemade or store-bought unseasoned dry bread crumbs (Note: To make unseasoned dry bread crumbs, place a layer of white or whole wheat bread slices on a baking sheet and bake at 300 degrees for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the bread turns light brown and dries completely. Allow the bread to cool, then place in a food processor or blender and process until it reaches the desired texture.)

1/4 cup black peppercorns, cracked (Note: To crack the peppercorns, place them in a resealable plastic bag, zip it closed, then use a meat mallet or the back of a heavy skillet to crush the peppercorns.)

In a medium mixing bowl, stir together the mustard, lemon juice, salt, thyme, rosemary, and eggs. Stir in the bread crumbs and peppercorns until well blended and use immediately or cover and refrigerate.

Cook’s Hint: Chef Staples suggests using domestic lamb, as opposed to New Zealand, for its less gamey flavor. It’s important to ask your butcher to remove the hip bone, trim as much fat as possible, then tie the remaining meat and leg bone into a roast to promote even cooking. You will also need to plan ahead when you make this recipe, since the lamb needs to marinate at least overnight and requires about four hours of cooking and resting time.

Coconut-Kasu Cod
Varietal: Viognier

Serves 6

From my first taste 15 years ago, I was enchanted with Black Cod in Sake Kasu, the Japanese preparation of sablefish (also known as black cod), in which the noble fish is marinated in kasu. Kasu is the fragrant, doughy sediment left over after rice is fermented to make sake, much like the lees, or dregs, that remain after winemaking. My quick variation is a heady mixture of coconut milk (for texture), white miso (for a malty flavor similar to kasu), and sake (for mellow acidity). This is one of my original recipes, often enjoyed at our house, and will appear in my upcoming book, Northwest Wining and Dining (John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 2007). I like to pair it with a vibrant Viognier bursting with floral aromas, fresh fruit in the mouth, and a long finish.

1/2 cup regular or light coconut milk (Note: Be sure to shake the can before opening and stir the coconut cream solids back into the coconut milk before measuring.)

1/4 cup white miso (See Cook’s Hint, below)

2 tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar

2 tablespoons mirin (See Cook’s Hint, below)

2 tablespoons sake

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon firmly packed brown sugar

1 1/2 pounds sablefish (black cod) fillet, rinsed, drained, and patted dry

Shichimi Togarashi, optional (See Cook’s Hint, below)

In a small nonreactive mixing bowl, whisk together the coconut milk, miso, rice vinegar, mirin, sake, mustard, and brown sugar until the sugar dissolves.

Pour half the marinade (about 1/2 cup) into a heavy-duty resealable plastic bag, add the sablefish, and turn several times to coat the fish completely. Let the fish marinate at room temperature for 30 minutes, or refrigerate for several hours or up to overnight. Cover the remaining marinade and allow to sit at room temperature for 30 minutes, or refrigerate for later use.

Ten minutes before cooking, remove the fish and the reserved marinade from the refrigerator. Place the oven rack 3 to 4 inches from the heat source. Preheat the broiler. Arrange a broiler pan with a rack and oil the rack or spray with nonstick cooking spray.

Arrange the sablefish skin side down on the broiler rack without crowding. Discard the resealable bag and used marinade.

With a clean pastry brush, brush the flesh side of the fish liberally with the reserved marinade. Cook 5 minutes.

Remove the pan from the broiler and brush liberally with the glaze. Cook another 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the broiler and brush liberally with the glaze. Return the pan to the oven and cook 3 to 5 minutes more, or until the fish just flakes and the glaze is golden brown and bubbly.

To serve, cut the fish into six portions and divide among dinner plates. If desired, sprinkle lightly with the Japanese pepper.

Holiday Crab Boils

Northwesterners love the region’s native crab—Dungeness—for its rich, sweet taste; big nuggets of meat; and large body size. Many of us make Dungies (as they are fondly nicknamed) the focus of our Christmas-Eve suppers by boiling them and serving with simple sauces such as Aïoli (garlic mayonnaise), spicy cocktail sauce, or melted butter. The two crab boil mixes below are among my favorites.

Spicy Crab Boil

Although the sweet, distinctive meat of the Dungeness crab is a joy to eat plain and unadulterated, sometimes it’s fun to spice it up a bit, as in this piquant version of the traditional crab boil.

3 cups water
1 teaspoon yellow mustard seed
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 bay leaf
1 precooked 2- to 2 1/2-pound Dungeness crab in the shell
In a large stockpot or Dutch oven, bring water, mustard seed, red pepper flakes, and bay leaf to a boil and add crab. Turn down heat to a simmer and cook 3 to 5 minutes, turning crab once.
Drain crab and serve immediately.
Serves 1 as an entrée; 2 as an appetizer

Tarragon Crab Boil

This elegant poaching liquid, infused with the essence of anise-flavored tarragon, takes the already superlative Dungeness crab to new heights. It can also be used to boil shell-on Alaskan spot prawns or shrimp or as a poaching liquid for a variety of fish fillets.

2 cups water
1 cup dry white wine
1 tablespoon dried tarragon, crumbled
1 precooked 2- to 2 1/2-pound Dungeness crab in the shell
In a large stockpot or Dutch oven, bring water, white wine, and tarragon to a boil and add crab. Turn down heat to a simmer and cook 3 to 5 minutes, turning crab once.
Drain crab and serve immediately.
Serves 1 as an entrée; 2 as an appetizer

Cook’s Note: The crab feed is a Northwest tradition that, besides taking place during the winter holidays, can take place on the beach, in the backyard, or in the privacy of one’s home. Crab feeds are informal affairs where newspapers thrown on the picnic table take the place of tablecloths, while paper napkins (and lots of them) stand in for the more fancy cloth. Dungeness crab, the star of the show, can be served chilled or (as I prefer) warmed in a spicy or herb-infused crab boil, as in the recipes given above. Popular side dishes include sourdough bread and tossed green salad (the bare minimum), and/or cole slaw, baked beans, potato salad, and garlic bread for the more ambitious. Live music and dancing, along with lots of cold beer and crisp white Northwest wines are popular additions to any crab feed.

Grasslands Lamb Stew

Chunks of grass-fed lamb and lentils meld into a hearty, distinctive stew when simmered with vegetables, dried cherries, and a fruity Washington state Merlot. Using lamb sirloin, although a more costly cut of meat than lamb neck or shoulder, ensures meltingly tender results.

8 whole cloves

1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns

1 to 2 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil

1 pound lamb sirloin, cut into bite-sized pieces

1 white or yellow onion, cut in half and quartered

2 carrots, cut on the diagonal into 1/4-inch slices

3 cloves garlic, peeled and halved

1/2 cup brown or green lentils, rinsed and picked over for debris

2 tomatoes, about 3/4 pound, cored and chopped OR 1 can (14

1/2 ounces) whole tomatoes, chopped

1 1/2 cups good-quality, fruity red wine, such as Washington state Merlot or 1 1/2 cups beef broth

1 heaping tablespoon dried cherries or cranberries

1 bay leaf

1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme OR 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled

Pinch of ground cinnamon

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 servings cooked white or brown rice or egg noodles

Instructions

Make a bouquet garni by cutting a 4-by-4-inch piece of cheesecloth and placing the cloves and peppercorns in the middle. Gather up the sides, tie with kitchen twine, and set aside.

Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large stockpot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat and add the lamb. Cook 8 to 10 minutes, or until the lamb is browned on all sides. Remove lamb from pan and reserve. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of oil remaining in the pan or, if little remains, add the remaining tablespoon of oil.

Add onions, carrots, garlic, and bouquet garni to pan and cook 5 to 7 minutes, or until tender-crisp, stirring occasionally. Adjust heat if the vegetables start to stick. Add lamb, lentils, tomatoes, wine, dried cherries, bay leaf, thyme, and cinnamon. Stir, bring to a low simmer, and cover stockpot. Cook for 1 1/4 hours, or until meat and lentils are tender. Do not allow mixture to boil, or meat will toughen. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

To serve, remove bouquet garni and bay leaf and spoon stew over cooked rice or noodles.

Serves 4 to 6

Butternut Squash and Oregon Blue Cheese Lasagna

Kaspar and Nancy Donier, co-owners of Kaspar’s restaurant (www.kaspars.com) on Queen Anne, a delightful neighborhood just North of the Pike Place Market, are long-time Market supporters. Chef Kaspar’s vegetarian lasagna is an intriguing mix of meltingly tender winter squash, lush blue-cheese cream sauce, blanched spinach, and earthy hazelnuts. The ground nutmeg and fresh sage leaves that garnish the casserole infuse the kitchen with enticing aromas as the lasagna is baking, to create a recipe that is the essence of autumn.

Room temperature unsalted butter, for greasing the pan

2 to 2 1/2 pounds butternut squash

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 1/2 cups whipping cream

1 1/2 cups (about 8 ounces) crumbled Oregon blue cheese

Pinch of kosher salt, plus extra for seasoning

Pinch of freshly ground black pepper, plus extra for seasoning

Pinch of ground nutmeg

4 to 6 fresh pasta sheets or 8 dried lasagna noodles (about 7 ounces) (See Cook’s Hint below)

1 cup whole-milk, part-skim, or fat-free ricotta cheese

8 ounces baby spinach leaves, blanched and coarsely chopped

12 fresh sage leaves

1/2 cup chopped hazelnuts

Preheat oven to 350° F. Butter an 8-by-12-inch baking pan and reserve.

To prepare the squash, cut off the ends, cut the squash in half lengthwise, remove the seeds, then peel the halves from top to bottom with a sharp vegetable peeler or a small, sharp paring knife. Cut the halves lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick slices.

Brush a baking sheet with the olive oil, arrange squash in a single layer on the baking sheet, and cook 30 to 35 minutes, or until soft.

Make sauce by bringing whipping cream to a boil in a small saucepan. Reduce heat to simmer and cook 3 minutes, watching the cream carefully and stirring occasionally so it doesn’t boil over. Add 1/2 cup of the crumbled blue cheese, along with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Remove from heat, cover, and reserve.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and cook fresh pasta sheets for 3 minutes or until al dente. If using dried lasagna noodles, cook according to package instructions. Remove pasta sheets, drain on paper towels, and reserve.

Make filling by mixing the remaining 1 cup blue cheese, ricotta, and spinach. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

To assemble lasagna, place one pasta sheet in bottom of reserved baking pan, cutting and arranging the pasta so entire bottom of pan is covered. Layer with one-third of filling, then one-third of squash. Repeat until all the ingredients are used, ending with a sheet of pasta.

Pour sauce evenly over lasagna, arrange sage leaves on top, and sprinkle with hazelnuts.

Bake 35 to 40 minutes, or until golden brown on top and heated all the way through.

To serve, cut into rectangles and divide among individual plates.

Serves 8

Cook’s Hint: Fresh pasta sheets vary in size. You will need enough pasta to cover four 8-by-12-inch layers. If you inadvertently buy extra, it can be sliced to the thickness you desire, cooked, and tossed into soups or used as a base for pasta entrées.

German Apple Cake

The recipe for this dense, moist cake, chock-full of grated apples and walnuts, was given to me by Pat and Jim Rankin, the original owners of Woodring Orchards
(www.woodringnorthwest.com). It is best made at the height of apple season with new-crop apples, although it’s so tasty, you’ll want to make and eat it year-round.

2 large eggs

1/2 cup vegetable or canola oil

2 cups granulated sugar

2 cups all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

4 cups grated apples, medium grate (about 3 large, firm apples, such as Fuji or Granny Smith)

1/2 cup chopped walnuts

Cream Cheese Icing (Recipe follows)

Preheat the oven to 350° F. Lightly grease a 9-by-13-inch baking pan or spray with nonstick cooking spray.

Beat eggs and oil in a large mixing bowl until pale yellow and creamy, then add sugar, flour, cinnamon, baking soda, salt, and vanilla. Stir until well blended, then add apples that have been drained of any juice that accumulates during grating. Mix well and add walnuts.

Pour dough into prepared baking pan and cook 35 to 45 minutes, or until cake shrinks from sides of pan and a toothpick inserted in the middle comes out clean. Cool cake on a wire rack. When completely cool, ice cake with Cream Cheese Icing, cut into slices, and enjoy.

Serves 12

Blueberry-Peach Cobbler

Of all the recipes in the first edition of the Pike Place Market Cookbook, this was one of the most popular, widely reprinted, and frequently requested. It’s easy to see why, for this is a magical dessert. The dough starts out on the bottom of the casserole dish, then travels to the top during baking. It’s full of bubbling-hot fruit, and so good it doesn’t even need a topping, although whipped cream or ice cream are delicious additions if you’re feeling indulgent.

1/2 cup unsalted butter or margarine

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 1/4 cups granulated sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 cup whole milk

2 cups sliced fresh peaches

1 1/2 to 2 cups fresh blueberries
Preheat the oven to 350° F. Get out a 2 1/2-quart baking dish.
While the oven preheats, melt butter in the baking dish in the oven, then set aside. Combine flour, 3/4 cup of the sugar, and baking powder; add milk and stir just until blended. Spoon batter over the butter in the baking dish, but do not stir.
Combine fruit and the remaining 1/2 cup sugar. Spoon over batter, but do not stir. Bake 45 to 55 minutes, or until fruit is bubbly and crust is golden brown. Serve warm.

Simple Soy Glaze for Summer Salmon

Many Northwest cooks have devised a special sauce or glaze they use time and again when grilling or broiling fresh seafood fillets and steaks. This is mine—a super-simple glaze (only five ingredients!) that is superb for summer salmon on the grill, but also so versatile you can use it on almost any fish or shellfish you choose.

1 tablespoon light cooking oil, such as canola, safflower, corn, soy, or vegetable

1 tablespoon soy sauce or low-sodium soy sauce

1 tablespoon honey, brown sugar, or maple syrup

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1/2 tablespoon prepared horseradish

1 1/2 pounds salmon fillets, bones removed, rinsed, drained, patted dry, and cut into four 6-ounce pieces

Preheat the broiler.

In a small bowl, mix together oil, soy sauce, honey, and mustard. Add horseradish and blend thoroughly.
Lightly oil a broiling pan with a rack or spray with nonstick cooking spray. Place salmon fillets on rack and brush lightly with the glaze.

Broil 3 to 4 inches from heat source for 3 minutes, then brush fillets again. If the fillets start to brown too much, move pan 4 to 6 inches from heat source. Continue brushing at 3-minute intervals and cook until salmon reaches desired doneness.

Makes 1/4 cup

Cook’s Hint: Now comes the really fun, creative part of this recipe. If you don’t like horseradish, you can substitute freshly grated gingerroot, Chinese five-spice powder, Japanese seven-spice seasoning (shichimi togarashi), or hot chili oil for an Asian flair. Cajun blackening mix creates a Southern taste. Add the alternative seasonings a little at a time, until you reach the level of spiciness or hotness you prefer.